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Is The Pink Stuff Safe on Marble & Natural Stone?

If you’ve searched this question, you’ve probably already found the problem: the internet can’t agree on the answer. One cleaning blog says The Pink Stuff will scratch your marble. Another quotes the brand saying it’s fine with a soft sponge. A TikTok shows someone “rescuing” a stained worktop with it — right next to a comment warning it ruined theirs.

So here’s a straight answer from a UK stone and tile supplier, based on the chemistry and on what the manufacturer itself actually recommends.

The short answer

The Pink Stuff’s own manufacturer advises against using its Multi-Purpose Cleaning Paste on marble and granite, and recommends using a cleaner made specifically for those surfaces. That’s not our opinion — it’s stated on their own FAQ page.

The reason is simple. It’s an abrasive alkaline paste. On robust, sealed, everyday surfaces that’s exactly what makes it effective. But marble, limestone and travertine are soft, acid- and alkali-sensitive stones, and abrasion plus alkalinity is the combination most likely to dull polish, etch the surface and leave permanent marks over repeated use.

If you want the cleaning power of a paste without the risk, the answer is a near-neutral, non-abrasive paste — the kind formulated for sensitive stone in the first place, such as Faber Magic 123 at pH 6.5.

Why marble and natural stone are different

Marble, limestone and travertine are all calcium carbonate stones. That single fact explains almost every cleaning rule you’ll ever read about them.

Calcium carbonate reacts with acids — which is why lemon juice, vinegar and many descalers leave dull “etch marks” on marble. Over time it’s also vulnerable to strongly alkaline products, and because polished marble is relatively soft, it scratches far more easily than the granite or porcelain most people assume behaves the same way.

Two things damage this kind of stone during cleaning:

  • The wrong pH — strongly acidic or strongly alkaline products attack the surface chemically, etching and dulling the polish.
  • Abrasive particles — mineral grit in a paste physically scratches the finish. On a polished surface, those micro-scratches read as a permanent loss of shine.

An abrasive alkaline paste hits both risks at once. That’s why a product that’s brilliant on an oven door or a stainless sink is the wrong tool for a marble worktop.

What The Pink Stuff actually is

The Pink Stuff Cleaning Paste works through a combination of mild abrasion and an alkaline cleaning action. That’s a genuinely effective formula on the surfaces it’s designed for — enamel, stainless steel, glazed ceramics, uPVC, pans and outdoor items.

The manufacturer doesn’t classify it as hazardous, and for everyday cleaning it’s a good general-purpose product. The issue isn’t safety to you — it’s suitability for the surface. Abrasive particles and an alkaline pH are precisely the two things a soft, polished, acid-sensitive stone can’t tolerate long-term, which is why the manufacturer’s own guidance steers people away from marble and granite and towards a stone-specific cleaner.

Surface by surface: where an abrasive alkaline paste is risky

Surface

Risk from an abrasive alkaline paste

Marble, limestone, travertine

High — etching and dulling from alkalinity, scratching from abrasion. Avoid.

Polished granite & quartz

Moderate — abrasive particles can micro-scratch a polished finish over repeated use.

Brass, copper, polished metals

Moderate — alkalinity and abrasion strip patina and dull polished finishes.

Glazed ceramic & porcelain

Low–moderate — repeated abrasive cleaning can degrade the glaze over time.

Glass

Low — but alkaline residue can smear and, long-term, bloom.

Enamel, stainless steel, uPVC, pans

Low — these are the surfaces it’s genuinely made for.

The pattern is clear: the more polished, soft or sensitive the finish, the less an abrasive alkaline paste belongs on it.

“But I’ve already used it on my marble — is it ruined?”

Not necessarily. A single careful use with a soft sponge is very different from months of scrubbing. If you notice dull patches or a loss of shine where you’ve been cleaning, that’s etching or fine scratching, and light cases can often be re-polished by a stone restoration professional.

The more useful takeaway is to switch your regular cleaning routine to something safe before the damage accumulates — because etching is gradual, and by the time it’s obvious it usually needs professional attention.

The safe alternative: a near-neutral paste built for stone

The reason people reach for a paste in the first place is sound. On rough, textured or structured surfaces — grout lines, craquelé glazes, riven slate, structured porcelain — liquid cleaners run straight off before they can dwell and work. A paste stays in contact with the full surface profile and lifts ingrained soiling a spray simply can’t.

The fix isn’t to give up the paste format. It’s to use a paste that keeps that dwell-and-lift advantage without the abrasive, alkaline chemistry.

Faber Magic 123 is a heavy-duty multi-surface cleaning paste made by Faber Chimica in Italy, formulated at a near-neutral pH of 6.5. It cleans through surfactant action in a paste carrier rather than through aggressive abrasion, which is what makes it safe on the surfaces an abrasive alkaline paste puts at risk:

  • Marble, limestone and travertine — near-neutral pH sits outside the etching risk zone for acid-sensitive stone.
  • Polished granite, quartz and glazed finishes — cleans without abrasive scratching.
  • Brass, copper and decorative metals — lifts light oxidation without stripping polished finishes.
  • Glass, rubber, PVC and more — one paste across mixed materials, indoors or out.

It handles the same stubborn, ingrained jobs people buy an abrasive paste for — stone worktops, textured tile, grout lines, taps and fixtures, even car rims and garden furniture — on surfaces where you can’t afford to gamble with the finish.

For routine daily cleaning of stone rather than heavy spot jobs, pair it with a pH-neutral maintenance cleaner such as Faber Neugel. For large-area heavy alkaline cleaning on robust floors where etching isn’t a concern, Faber 30 is the workhorse. Magic 123 is the targeted, surface-safe paste that sits between them.

Faber Magic 123 500g multi-surface cleaning paste — near-neutral pH 6.5 professional cleaner for stone tile marble metal and glass
Faber Magic 123 — heavy-duty cleaning paste, pH 6.5, 500g jar. Safe on marble, stone, porcelain, metals and glass. Made in Italy by Faber Chimica.

How to clean stubborn marks off marble safely

  1. Test first on an inconspicuous area, especially on polished or delicate finishes.
  2. Take a small amount of a near-neutral paste on a damp white pad, microfibre cloth or sponge.
  3. Work it in gentle circular motions until it foams — let the chemistry do the work, not pressure.
  4. Rinse thoroughly with clean water until no residue remains.
  5. Repeat on heavy soiling rather than scrubbing harder in one pass.

A little goes a long way, and gentle-but-repeated always beats aggressive-but-once on soft stone.

Frequently asked questions

Is The Pink Stuff safe on marble? The manufacturer advises against using its Multi-Purpose Cleaning Paste on marble and recommends a cleaner made specifically for the surface. Marble is a soft, acid- and abrasion-sensitive stone, and an abrasive alkaline paste can dull and etch it over repeated use. A near-neutral, non-abrasive paste such as Faber Magic 123 (pH 6.5) is the safer choice.

Is The Pink Stuff safe on granite? The manufacturer also advises against granite. Sealed granite is more robust than marble, but abrasive particles can micro-scratch a polished finish over time. For regular use, a stone-safe cleaner is the better long-term option.

Can you use The Pink Stuff on quartz worktops? Abrasive pastes aren’t ideal on quartz — repeated abrasion can dull the polished surface, and many quartz manufacturers advise against abrasive cleaners. A near-neutral paste cleans stubborn marks without that risk.

What can I use instead of The Pink Stuff on marble? A near-neutral, non-abrasive cleaning paste formulated for stone. Faber Magic 123 (pH 6.5) delivers the same paste-format cleaning power on marble, granite, polished metal and glazed surfaces without the etching or scratching risk.

Why use a paste instead of a spray on stone? On textured and structured surfaces — grout lines, riven stone, craquelé glazes, structured porcelain — liquid cleaners run off before they can work. A paste stays in contact with the full surface profile and lifts ingrained soiling a spray can’t reach.

HF Flooring Supplies is a UK trade supplier of Faber Chimica professional stone, tile and surface care products. Trade accounts available — get in touch.

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How to Remove Stains From Stone and Tile — Without Etching the Floor

How to Remove Stains From Stone and Tile — Without Etching the Floor

A professional’s guide to reading the stain, reading the surface, and reaching for the right product the first time.

There’s a myth that stain removal is about effort — that if a mark won’t shift, you haven’t scrubbed hard enough or bought a strong enough chemical. After the better part of a decade on our knees restoring stone and tile floors, we can tell you it’s almost never true. The stubborn stain isn’t a strength problem. It’s a diagnosis problem.

Get the diagnosis right and most stains lift with almost no effort — the correct chemistry does the work while you make a brew. Get it wrong and you’ll either waste an afternoon achieving nothing, or, far worse, cause damage that no amount of cleaning will undo. Reach for the wrong rust remover on a marble hearth and you won’t just fail to remove the rust — you’ll etch the marble permanently.

This guide is the diagnostic framework we use on real jobs. It comes down to two questions, asked in the right order, and a small set of products each matched to a specific problem.

The two questions that decide everything

Before you open a single tin, answer these:

  1. What is the surface? Specifically: is it acid-sensitive or acid-resistant? This decides which products are even allowed near it.
  2. What is the stain? Colour, grease, rust, damp, or installation residue — each is a different chemistry problem with a different answer.

Most people jump straight to question two, grab whatever “stain remover” is nearest, and hope. The professionals ask question one first, every single time. So will you, by the end of this.

Question one: is your surface acid-sensitive or acid-resistant?

This is the single most important thing on the page, so it’s worth understanding why it matters rather than just memorising a list.

Natural stone splits broadly into two families based on what holds it together. Calcareous stones — marble, limestone, travertine, onyx, and some slates — are bound by calcium carbonate. Siliceous stones — granite, quartzite, most sandstone, slate — are bound by silica. That difference is the whole game.

Calcium carbonate reacts with acid. Put an acidic product on marble or limestone and the acid dissolves a microscopic layer of the surface, leaving a dull, rough patch we call an etch. On a polished floor it shows up instantly as a matte mark where the shine used to be — and it’s physical damage, not a stain, so you can’t clean it off. It has to be re-polished or honed out. Silica doesn’t react this way, which is why acidic products are fine on granite, porcelain and quartz.

So the surfaces divide like this:

  • Acid-sensitive (calcareous): marble, limestone, travertine, onyx, polished/honed calcareous stone.
  • Acid-resistant (siliceous / man-made): granite, quartzite, porcelain stoneware, quartz agglomerate, glazed ceramic, most slate and sandstone.

Not sure which you’ve got? Two safe habits. First assume it’s acid-sensitive until proven otherwise — that covers most marble and limestone and you don’t want to etch those. Second, always patch-test any remover on a hidden area (under a unit, in a cupboard, on an offcut) before committing. Trade professionals sometimes confirm a calcareous stone with a spot test — a drop of a dilute acid on an inconspicuous corner fizzes on carbonate stone — but if you’re at all unsure, skip the test and just treat it as acid-sensitive. It costs you nothing and it can’t backfire.

With the surface understood, you can safely move to the stain.

Question two: what kind of stain is it?

Here are the six stain families you’ll actually meet on floors and surfaces, what causes each, and the product matched to it.

1. Colour and organic stains — wine, coffee, ink, algae, mould

These are the everyday marks: red wine rings, coffee and tea, fruit and food, permanent marker and coloured ink, plus biological growth like algae and mould on outdoor stone. They’re absorbed colour — the pigment has soaked into the pores of the material.

The answer is a colour-extraction gel like Faber No Mac Gel. It’s neutral and water-based, which is what makes it safe right across the board — including polished marble — and its gel body holds it in contact with the stain long enough to draw the colour back out. Apply it thick and undiluted, let it dwell from fifteen minutes up to a couple of hours depending on how old the stain is, then lift the residue and wipe down. Old, set-in stains often need a second pass; that’s normal, and repeating is always better than reaching for something harsher.

Faber No Mac Gel bottle – water-based gel that removes colored stains like coffee, wine, ink, algae and mould from stone, ceramic, and tile.
Faber No Mac Gel powerfully extracts stains like wine, ink, and algae from stone and ceramics—while preserving surface sheen

2. Grease and oil — cooking oil, motor oil, fat, wax

Oil stains behave differently from colour stains. Oil is drawn deep into porous stone and sits inside the material, often spreading into a dark halo. Water-based cleaners can’t touch it because oil and water don’t mix — you need a solvent that can dissolve the oil and a mechanism to pull it back out.

Faber No Oil is a solvent-based extractor that does exactly that, and cleverly, it’s still safe on acid-sensitive stone. Here’s the satisfying part: you apply it as a thick paste, and as it dries it turns to a white powder — and that powder is the oil, drawn up out of the stone and trapped in the drying medium. Once it’s fully dry (usually one to two hours), you simply brush the powder away. It’s the closest thing to watching a stain physically leave the floor. Deep or old oil stains may need repeating, and again, that’s expected.

Faber NO OIL grease stain remover – solvent-based gel for extracting deep oil and grease stains from stone, porcelain, wood, and concrete.
Faber NO OIL’s solvent-rich gel penetrates and lifts deep oil, grease, and bitumen stains—protecting delicate stone finishes without altering appearance.

3. Rust on hard (acid-resistant) stone — granite, porcelain, quartz

Rust comes from iron — a dropped tin, a metal planter, rebar bleeding through, or iron minerals in the stone itself oxidising. On acid-resistant surfaces like granite, porcelain, quartz and slate, you can use a proper acidic rust remover, which is the most direct chemistry for the job.

Faber No Rug is built for this. It penetrates deep to lift rust, oxidation and salt efflorescence, and because the surface is acid-tolerant there’s no etching risk. Dwell times run from thirty minutes on surface rust up to many hours — even overnight — on deep, old staining. This is the product you must never put on marble, limestone or travertine. Which is exactly why the next one exists.

Faber NO RUG – Rust & Oxidation Stain Remover for Acid-Resistant Stone
Remove rust, salt stains, and oxidation from granite, porcelain, quartz and ceramic surfaces with Faber NO RUG. Deep-penetrating and water-based.

4. Rust on soft (acid-sensitive) stone — marble, limestone, travertine

This is where most rust jobs go wrong. The instinct is to grab a rust remover, but a standard one is acidic, and on marble that means an etched floor. You need rust chemistry that works without acid.

Faber Mar Gel Plus is an acid-free rust remover developed specifically for calcareous stone. It lifts iron staining from marble, limestone and travertine with no etching risk — and it gives you a genuinely useful visual cue: it turns purple as it reacts with the rust, so you can see it working and judge when it’s done. Once you’ve removed the gel, finish the area with Faber Oxidant to clear any residual purple tint and complete the job. Dwell ranges from a few minutes on light marks to several hours on deep ones.

The pairing of No Rug and Mar Gel Plus is the whole reason a proper stain kit carries two rust removers. It’s not redundancy — it’s the difference between a clean floor and a ruined one.

Faber MAR GEL PLUS bottle – water-based gel that deeply extracts rust stains from marble, limestone and travertine finishes.
Faber MAR GEL PLUS penetrates and dissolves rust from marble, limestone, and travertine—safe for polished and compact finishes

 

5. Damp, dark marks and yellowing

Some of the most frustrating marks aren’t spills at all. Rising damp leaves dark patches and a tide line. Old stone yellows. Tannins from timber or leaves bleed in. Organic matter breaks down and darkens the stone from within. These are the deep, diffuse stains that colour-removers won’t shift because they’re not simple surface pigment — they need an oxidising extractor.

Faber Oxidant is the heavyweight here. It’s water-based and safe on acid-sensitive stone, and it reaches into porous material to neutralise and lift damp marks, yellowing, tannin and general oxidation from within. These are stubborn stains, so dwell times are long — anywhere from an hour up to a full twenty-four on the worst cases, often helped by holding the product in place with a poultice so it doesn’t dry out too soon. Oxidant is also the finishing partner for Mar Gel Plus, clearing the purple reaction residue after a rust treatment.

Faber Oxidant – ultimate water-based extractor for stubborn stains caused by rising damp, nicotine, tannin, and rust residue on porous surface
Faber Oxidant eliminates yellowing, damp marks, nicotine, and rust residue—restoring surfaces with gentle, water-based power

 

6. Grout haze and epoxy film — the installer’s stain

Not every mark is a spill on an old floor. On a fresh installation you get grout haze, sealant film, adhesive residue and epoxy patina — the cloudy, filmy leftovers that make a brand-new floor look dirty. On acid-sensitive stone this is a trap, because the traditional cementitious-haze remover is acidic and will etch the very marble you’ve just laid.

Faber Epoxy Residue Remover sidesteps that. It’s an alkaline cleaner — acid-free — so it dissolves grout haze, epoxy and sealant film and adhesive residue while staying safe on marble and limestone, and it handles the awkward textures (structured, matte and micro-finished porcelain) that trap residue. Short dwell, ten to thirty minutes, agitate, rinse thoroughly. It’s the product every tiler needs on the van and most don’t carry until the first haze disaster teaches them to.

Epoxy Residue Remover bottle – alkaline cleaner that dissolves grout and epoxy films on stone, porcelain, terracotta, and ceramic surfaces.
Use Epoxy Residue Remover to tackle grout haze and stubborn epoxy residues—ideal for freshly installed stone and tile.

 

The golden rule, one more time

If you take nothing else from this guide, take this: acidic rust removers etch marble. Marble, limestone and travertine are always acid-sensitive. On those stones use Mar Gel Plus, never No Rug. When you don’t know what the stone is, treat any pale, polished surface as acid-sensitive and patch-test a hidden area first. That one decision, made correctly, is the line between a floor you’ve rescued and a floor you’ve damaged.

Technique that applies to every stain

Whatever the stain, the workflow is the same, and getting the process right matters as much as picking the product:

  • Clean and dry first. Remove surface dirt so the product contacts the stain, not the grime on top of it.
  • Patch-test. Always, on unknown or polished stone.
  • Apply generously and undiluted. These are gels and pastes designed to be laid on thick — a thin layer dries out and stops working.
  • Give it time, not force. If a stain resists, extend the dwell or repeat the treatment. Do not jump to a harsher chemical — that’s how surfaces get damaged. On stubborn or vertical stains, a poultice holds the product in place and stops it drying before it’s finished.
  • Rinse and inspect. Remove residue, rinse with clean water, let it dry fully, and only then judge the result — stone often looks darker when wet and clears as it dries.
  • Re-seal afterwards. This is the step everyone skips. Once you’ve stripped a stain out of porous stone, that stone is wide open to the next spill. A quality impregnating sealer closes the door so you’re not back doing the same job in six months.

An honest word: not every stain comes out

Part of being straight with people is admitting the limits. Some stains aren’t stains in the normal sense — they’re compounds that have migrated deep into the body of the material and chemically bonded there. The classic example is the dark rubber-backing marks left on Victorian tile by decades of old carpet underlay: the antioxidant compounds in the rubber have soaked in and oxidised inside the clay, and no surface treatment fully reaches them. For cases like that, the honest professional answer is a test panel, realistic expectations, and sometimes a colour-enhancing sealer to reduce the contrast rather than a promise to remove the mark entirely. If a supplier tells you every stain always lifts, they haven’t done enough floors.

That caveat aside, the six families above cover the overwhelming majority of what you’ll meet — and matched correctly, they lift cleanly.

One kit, every stain family

We built the Faber Complete Stain Removal Kit around exactly this framework: one product for each of the six stain families, spanning every chemistry class — neutral, acidic, alkaline, solvent and acid-free — with two dedicated rust removers so whatever the stone, you always have the safe option to hand. It’s the kit we’d want in our own van: no guessing, and nothing in it that can etch a floor you’ve been trusted with.

If you’re a trade business, open a trade account for your best pricing across the full Faber range.

Quick FAQ

Can I use one all-purpose stain remover for everything? Not well. “Colour,” “grease,” “rust” and “damp” are genuinely different chemistry problems — a colour-extraction gel won’t touch oil, and an oil solvent won’t lift rust. Matching the product to the stain family is what makes removal quick and reliable.

How do I know if my stone is acid-sensitive? If it’s marble, limestone or travertine, it is. If you’re unsure, assume any pale, polished natural stone is acid-sensitive and patch-test before using anything acidic.

Why does my rust remover keep failing on marble? Most likely it’s acidic and etching the marble rather than removing the rust — the dull mark you’re seeing may be etch damage, not the original stain. Switch to an acid-free rust remover made for calcareous stone.

Do I really need to reseal after removing a stain? Yes, on porous stone. Stripping the stain also strips protection, leaving the stone more absorbent than before. A fresh impregnating sealer stops the next spill becoming the next stain.

Should I go stronger if a stain won’t shift? No — go longer, or repeat. Extend the dwell time or do a second application. Escalating to harsher chemistry is the most common way people damage a surface they were trying to save.

Written by the team at HF Flooring Supplies — an official Faber Surface Care partner, drawing on years of hands-on stone and tile restoration. We work with these products on real floors, and we’re happy to help you match a product to your problem.

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How to Clean Slate Floors: The Professional Guide to Cleaning, Restoring and Sealing Slate

Slate floor cleaned and sealed with Faber Neugel and Hidro 150 natural look impregnator

Slate is one of the most durable natural stones you can put on a floor. Laid correctly and maintained properly, a slate floor will outlast the building it sits in. But maintaining it properly is the key phrase. Most of the advice circulating online about cleaning slate floors is wrong in ways that cause slow, invisible damage — and by the time the floor looks noticeably worse, years of unnecessary wear have already been done.

This guide explains how professionals clean, restore and protect slate floors. It covers the products that actually work, the household products that cause long-term damage, and how to choose the right sealer finish for your slate.


Why Most Slate Cleaning Advice Gets It Wrong

Search “how to clean slate floor” and you will find dozens of guides recommending vinegar, washing up liquid, baking soda, or hydrogen peroxide. These are household products, and they are the wrong tools for slate.

Vinegar is acidic. Slate is predominantly composed of quartz and mica — minerals that are broadly acid-resistant — but almost all commercially available slate contains some calcite or dolomite. When these minerals contact acid, the reaction is microscopic but cumulative. Over months and years of vinegar cleaning, you get etching, loss of surface texture, and dulling that cannot be reversed without mechanical restoration. Welsh slate is among the most acid-resistant available, but even Welsh slate should not be cleaned with vinegar repeatedly.

Washing up liquid leaves a surfactant film on the floor. On a smooth surface this dries clear and looks clean. On slate, which has a textured cleft surface, the residue builds up in the natural fissures and low points of the stone. Over time it becomes a dirt trap. The floor starts looking dull and difficult to clean, even after washing — because the residue itself is attracting grime.

Baking soda is mildly alkaline and abrasive. The abrasive action is too light to cause visible scratching but is not appropriate for regular use on a natural stone surface that has been sealed.

The professional approach uses purpose-formulated stone cleaning chemistry. pH-neutral or mild-alkaline cleaners that are specifically designed not to leave residue, not to attack stone minerals, and not to strip sealers prematurely.


Understanding Slate Before You Clean It

Slate is a metamorphic rock formed under high pressure from clay minerals and volcanic ash. Its characteristic structure — the natural cleft surface, the layered appearance, the variation in tone — comes from the way it splits along planes of weakness during quarrying and cutting.

This structure means slate is more porous than it looks. The cleft surface has natural micro-channels and fissures that absorb liquids. An unsealed slate floor will stain easily. A poorly sealed floor will allow cleaning products to penetrate and leave residue. A correctly sealed floor is protected at depth, which means cleaning is easier and results last longer.

UK slate commonly used for flooring includes:

Welsh slate — quarried in North Wales, particularly around Penrhyn and Dinorwig. Dark blue-grey, very dense, among the finest natural slates available anywhere. Low porosity, high acid resistance.

Westmorland green slate — from Cumbria. A distinctive grey-green colour with strong cleft character. Slightly more porous than Welsh slate but still excellent for interiors.

Spanish slate — widely used, darker grey tones, generally consistent and well-suited to residential floors.

Indian black slate — popular for contemporary kitchens and bathrooms. Finer texture than traditional UK slates. Can have higher porosity depending on origin. Needs careful sealing.

Brazilian slate — dense, dark, fine-grained. Good acid resistance. Used extensively in commercial applications.

Knowing your slate type matters because porosity determines how much sealer you need and how frequently the floor should be maintained.


Routine Cleaning: The Right Product for Everyday Maintenance

For regular maintenance cleaning of a sealed slate floor, the correct product is a pH-neutral or mild-alkaline stone-specific detergent. It needs to clean effectively without stripping the sealer, without leaving residue, and without affecting the stone chemistry.

Faber Neugel is a professional daily cleaning detergent formulated specifically for natural stone. It is pH-neutral, rinses clean without residue, and is safe for use on sealed and unsealed stone surfaces including slate. It will not attack sealers, will not etch calcite-containing minerals, and will not leave the surfactant film that washing up liquid deposits in the texture of cleft slate.

For daily or weekly maintenance use, dilute Faber Neugel at the recommended rate, apply with a well-wrung mop, and rinse with clean water. For slate with a strong cleft surface, a soft brush used on the floor before mopping helps dislodge debris from the deeper fissures before the wet clean.

This is the routine that keeps a maintained slate floor looking consistent. Simple, repeatable, and chemically correct.


Deep Cleaning: Removing Built-Up Grime from Slate

Slate floors that have not been professionally cleaned for several years typically have a combination of problems: ingrained organic soil in the stone’s texture, residue from years of inappropriate cleaning products, and in some cases old wax or topical coating build-up that has trapped dirt beneath it.

A single mop with a neutral cleaner will not resolve these problems. A proper deep clean uses a stronger alkaline chemistry to break down organic soiling and lift it from the stone.

Faber 30 is a concentrated alkaline deep cleaner designed for heavy-duty cleaning of stone and tile floors. Applied diluted with a dwell time of 10 to 15 minutes before scrubbing and rinsing, it breaks down ingrained grease, organic grime, and soiling that has built up over years of normal use. It is safe for slate and does not damage stone surfaces or active sealers when used at the correct dilution.

For floors with a single disc machine or rotary scrubber, Faber 30 used with a medium scrub pad delivers a thorough clean in a single pass that would take multiple manual cleaning sessions to achieve.

For floors with wax or topical sealer build-up that has become discoloured and trapped dirt, Faber Dec 21 is the appropriate stripping product. It is a solvent-based wax and treatment remover that breaks down old wax polish, synthetic sealer coatings, and other topical treatments. Used before Faber 30, the combination strips the floor back to bare stone and prepares it for re-sealing.

After a deep clean with Faber 30, always rinse thoroughly with clean water. Residual alkaline chemistry left on the floor can affect how subsequent sealers cure.


Removing Cement Haze and Grout Residue

Newly installed slate floors often have cement haze or grout residue across the surface. This is common after installation and can give the floor a dull, milky, or uneven appearance.

Faber Disycott is a concentrated acid-based post-installation cleaner formulated to remove cement film, grout residues, and inorganic deposits. Unlike household acidic cleaners, Disycott is formulated to react with mineral deposits rather than with the stone itself, and is safe for use on slate when applied correctly. Always test on an inconspicuous area first, particularly if you are unsure about the calcite content of your specific slate.

Apply Disycott diluted at the recommended rate, allow to dwell for 5 to 10 minutes watching carefully for any reaction with the stone surface, then scrub and rinse thoroughly with clean water. Neutralise with a clean water rinse before applying any sealer.


Sealing Slate: Choosing the Right Finish

Once the floor is clean — whether from routine maintenance or a full deep clean and strip — it needs to be sealed correctly. The right sealer depends on the finish you want and the environment the floor is in.

There are three distinct approaches, and they produce noticeably different results.

Natural Look: Hidro 150

Faber Hidro 150 is a water-based impregnating sealer that penetrates the slate and provides stain protection without altering the appearance of the stone. The floor looks exactly as it did when dry — the same colour, the same texture, the same natural character — but is protected against water and oil-based staining from within.

This is the right choice if you want the slate to look as natural as possible. Hidro 150 is breathable, which matters for floors installed over older substrates where moisture movement needs to be accommodated. It is also colourless and does not add any sheen or wet-look effect.

Application is straightforward: apply to a clean, dry surface using a microfibre pad or brush, allow to penetrate, remove any excess before it dries on the surface, and allow to cure fully before use.

Colour-Enhanced Look: Faber Wet Look Eco

Faber Wet Look Eco is a water-based colour-enhancing impregnating sealant. It deepens and enriches the natural colours of the slate — the dark blues, the greens, the greys — giving the floor the appearance it has immediately after wetting. It produces a subtle sheen without leaving a surface film.

This is the popular choice for slate floors where the owner wants the colours to look their best. Indian black slate particularly benefits from a colour-enhancing sealer — the stone looks striking when enhanced but flat when sealed with a natural-look product. Welsh slate and Westmorland green also respond well to Wet Look Eco, bringing out the depth of colour that makes these stones so distinctive.

Wet Look Eco is water-based, which means lower VOC than solvent alternatives and easier application in occupied properties.

Maximum Colour Enhancement: Faber P147 Plus

Faber P147 Plus is a solvent-based colour-enhancing impregnating sealer providing the most pronounced colour deepening of the three options. Where Wet Look Eco gives a subtle enrichment, P147 Plus gives a bold, vibrant enhancement — the slate looks as though it has just been thoroughly wetted. The finish is matt rather than glossy, so there is no surface sheen, but the colour depth is significantly greater.

P147 Plus is the professional contractor’s choice for restoration projects where the slate has faded over years of use and the client wants the floor returned to how it looked when originally installed. It provides excellent water and oil repellency and penetrates deeply into the stone rather than sitting on the surface.

Being solvent-based, P147 Plus requires good ventilation during application and appropriate drying time before the floor is brought back into use.

Which Sealer to Choose

Finish Product Best For
Natural, no colour change Faber Hidro 150 Light slates, conservation properties, where original look must be preserved
Subtle colour enhancement, water-based Faber Wet Look Eco Most residential slate floors, Indian black, Westmorland green
Strong colour enhancement, solvent-based Faber P147 Plus Restoration projects, faded floors, Welsh slate, where maximum colour depth is needed

How Often Should You Seal Slate Floors?

The honest answer is that it depends on the sealer used, the porosity of the slate, and the amount of foot traffic the floor receives.

A simple water test will tell you when re-sealing is needed. Drop a small amount of water onto the floor surface. If it beads immediately and stays on the surface, the sealer is active. If it slowly absorbs into the stone and darkens it, the sealer has been depleted in that area and the floor needs re-sealing.

In a residential hallway with normal foot traffic, a quality impregnating sealer applied correctly will typically last three to five years before the water bead test shows depletion. In commercial environments or areas of very heavy use, annual re-sealing may be appropriate.


Slate Floor Maintenance Summary

Daily: Dust mop or sweep to remove grit and debris before it can be ground into the stone.

Weekly: Damp mop with Faber Neugel at maintenance dilution. Wring the mop thoroughly — excessive moisture left standing on slate is unnecessary and counterproductive.

Annually or as needed: Deep clean with Faber 30 at higher concentration to remove built-up soiling. Follow the water bead test to determine whether re-sealing is required.

After installation or full restoration: Strip any existing treatments with Faber Dec 21 if needed. Remove cement haze with Faber Disycott. Deep clean with Faber 30. Seal with the appropriate Faber sealer for your chosen finish.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you use vinegar to clean slate floors? No. Vinegar is acidic and will react with calcite or dolomite minerals present in most commercial slate. Repeated use causes etching, surface dulling, and colour change that cannot be corrected without mechanical restoration. Always use a pH-neutral or mild-alkaline stone-specific cleaner such as Faber Neugel.

What is the best cleaner for slate floors? For routine maintenance on a sealed slate floor, Faber Neugel is the professional standard — pH-neutral, no residue, safe for stone and sealers. For deep cleaning or removal of built-up grime, Faber 30 concentrated alkaline cleaner is the appropriate product.

Why does my slate floor look dull after cleaning? Dullness after cleaning typically indicates one of three things: surfactant residue from inappropriate cleaning products building up in the stone’s texture; sealer depletion meaning the floor needs re-sealing; or etching damage from acidic cleaners used over time. A professional deep clean with Faber 30 followed by re-sealing with the appropriate Faber impregnator will restore the appearance in most cases.

How often should you seal slate floors? Perform the water bead test regularly. If water absorbs into the stone rather than beading on the surface, the sealer has depleted and re-sealing is needed. In most residential settings this is every three to five years depending on foot traffic and the sealer used.

What is the difference between Wet Look Eco and P147 Plus for slate? Both are colour-enhancing impregnating sealers. Wet Look Eco is water-based and gives a subtle colour deepening. P147 Plus is solvent-based and gives a stronger, more pronounced colour enhancement. For most residential slate floors Wet Look Eco is appropriate. For restoration projects where the slate has faded significantly, P147 Plus gives the more dramatic result.

Is bleach safe to use on slate floors? No. Bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is highly alkaline and will damage slate sealers, cause colour changes, and attack the organic matter in the stone’s natural variation. Never use bleach on natural stone of any type.

Can you use a steam cleaner on slate floors? Steam cleaning is not recommended for sealed slate floors. The high heat and moisture penetrate the stone and can cause delamination of the sealer, force moisture into the substrate, and damage the adhesive bond on some installations. On unsealed slate in the right circumstances professional steam cleaning can be effective, but it should be followed immediately by re-sealing.


All Faber products mentioned in this guide are available from HF Flooring Supplies with free UK delivery on orders over the threshold. HF Flooring Supplies is a selected UK partner for Faber Chimica.

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1K vs 2K Waterborne Lacquer: What Independent Lab Testing Actually Shows

Large herringbone parquet floor finished with Arboritec Avenue 2K waterborne lacquer in a commercial public hall

When a contractor chooses between a single-component (1K) and a two-component (2K) waterborne lacquer, they’re usually weighing convenience against durability. The 1K is simpler — no mixing, no pot life to manage. The 2K demands more discipline on site. But how much does that trade-off actually cost in real-world performance terms?

We recently had access to independent application laboratory benchmark data comparing twelve professional waterborne parquet lacquers — seven 1K formulations and five 2K formulations — tested head-to-head on identical substrates under controlled conditions. The products included some of the most widely-used names in the professional flooring market. The results are instructive, and in some areas, striking.


How the testing was done

The benchmark used standardised professional coating test methods across three substrate types:

  • Opacity chart (80µm wet film, 1 week cure at 22°C/48% RH) — for chemical resistance, gloss, film appearance, and nail scratch
  • Oak wood (two coats at 120µm wet each, cured 24h then 1 week at RT) — for chemical resistance, BHMR, and scuff resistance
  • Glass (80µm bar coater, 1 week cure) — for König pendulum hardness and nail scratch

Every product was tested at the same film build, in the same conditions, with the same cure schedule. This matters — real-world comparisons between products often fail because application variables differ. Here, they didn’t.


Understanding the Taber abrasion test — and what it actually measures

Before getting to the numbers, it’s worth explaining the Taber abrasion test properly — because it’s widely quoted in product datasheets and just as widely misunderstood.

The Taber Test is a standardised wear testing machine used across the coatings, plastics, and flooring industries. A flat test specimen is mounted on a rotating turntable, and two weighted abrasive wheels bear down on it as it spins. After a set number of rotations — in this benchmark, 500 rotations at 1kg load — the specimen is weighed again and the difference in milligrams is recorded. Lower mg loss means less material removed, which means better resistance to that specific type of abrasion.

The CS-17 vs CS-10 wheel distinction

This is where it gets important for anyone interpreting Taber data from product datasheets — because not all Taber results are comparable, and manufacturers don’t always make the wheel choice obvious.

There are two wheels in common use for coating testing:

CS-10 (Calibrase, mild abrasion) — A relatively soft, resilient rubber-and-aluminium-oxide wheel that produces mild, fine abrading action. Taber Industries describes it as simulating “normal handling, cleaning, or polishing” conditions. In flooring terms, think of it as representing the cumulative effect of foot traffic grit, dry-mopping, and light daily abrasion — the kind of micro-scratching that builds up over months and gradually dulls a floor’s sheen. It is the wheel most commonly used by flooring lacquer manufacturers on their own commercial datasheets, and it tends to produce more flattering numbers than the alternative.

CS-17 (Calibrase, harsh abrasion) — A harder, denser wheel that produces significantly more aggressive abrasion. Taber’s own documentation describes it as producing “harsher abrasion than the CS-10 wheel.” In flooring terms, it more closely represents the kind of concentrated mechanical stress that occurs in high-traffic zones — heavy footfall on grit, furniture legs under load, or repeated rolling castor contact. The same lacquer will typically post a considerably higher mg loss figure on the CS-17 than on the CS-10, which is exactly why comparing two products tested on different wheels is meaningless.

The benchmark discussed in this post used the CS-17 wheel at 1kg load — the more demanding of the two standard options. This is significant context when reading the results below, and it’s also why these figures will look higher than the CS-10 numbers you may be used to seeing on manufacturer datasheets.

To illustrate the difference in terms of what each wheel is simulating: the CS-10 is asking “how does this lacquer hold up to everyday foot traffic and regular cleaning over time?” The CS-17 is asking “how does this lacquer hold up to the most punishing zone in the building — the entrance mat threshold, the bar servery, the corridor where every delivery trolley passes?” Both are valid questions. They just aren’t the same question.

What mg loss actually means in practice — and what it doesn’t

Here is the critical caveat that rarely makes it into product marketing: a Taber mg loss figure does not directly predict how long a lacquer will last before it needs maintenance or recoating.

The Taber test is a comparative tool, not an absolute durability predictor. It tells you how one product performs relative to another under identical controlled conditions. What it cannot tell you is the real-world timeline before a floor’s appearance deteriorates to the point where a client wants it refinished.

This matters for two reasons. First, the total film build on a real floor is considerably thicker than a test specimen, applied in multiple coats on a substrate with its own surface texture, porosity, and mechanical behaviour. Real-world wear is more complex than the contact mechanics of a lab specimen on a turntable. Second, and more importantly for wood floors: in practice, a lacquer finish is almost never worn through to bare wood before maintenance becomes necessary. What actually triggers refinishing is the loss of sheen in high-traffic zones — the progressive dulling and micro-scratching that makes a floor look tired — long before any meaningful film thickness has been lost.

A lacquer that loses 24mg over 500 CS-17 rotations at 1kg load does not mean the floor will wear through to bare wood in 500 footsteps. It means that under that specific, highly concentrated mechanical assault, it lost 24mg of material. The real-world implication is: relative to a product that loses 50mg or 70mg under the same conditions, it will take considerably longer to show visible dullness in traffic lanes, and considerably longer before a maintenance coat is needed.

With that context established, the results become genuinely useful.


Mechanical performance: where 2K pulls away

Taber abrasion resistance (CS-17 wheel, 500 rotations, 1kg load)

The 2K formulations tested posted Taber results between 11mg and 25mg. The 1K formulations ranged from 23mg to 72mg — with the worst-performing 1K losing nearly three times as much material as the best 2K.

Arboritec Avenue 2K recorded 24mg, placing it solidly in the upper tier of the 2K group. One 2K formulation in the test returned an unusually low 11mg — though its König hardness figure suggests a very different formulation balance that makes the headline number less straightforward than it appears.

Crucially, every single 1K product in the benchmark performed worse than every 2K product on Taber abrasion, without exception. The 1K range ran from 23mg at its best to 72mg at its worst. Even the strongest 1K result sat at the lower boundary of the 2K range.

In a busy restaurant corridor, a commercial retail entrance, or a hospitality environment with high-frequency wet cleaning, that gap translates directly into how frequently the floor needs maintenance attention. A product losing three times as much material under the same stress will show visible wear sooner, require maintenance coats sooner, and cost more to maintain across the floor’s lifetime.

König pendulum hardness

König hardness is measured in seconds of oscillation on glass: a pendulum is placed on the cured film surface, set swinging, and the time for it to damp to a defined amplitude is recorded. Longer oscillation time = harder film = greater resistance to indentation and deformation under point loading.

Avenue 2K recorded 99 seconds — the highest result among all five 2K formulations tested. Among the 1K group, König results ranged from 35 to 129 seconds — but this range requires careful interpretation.

Higher König hardness in the 1K group does not automatically mean a better overall finish. In coating formulation, hardness and chemical resistance are in tension with each other, and hardness must be read alongside chemical resistance data to understand what a formulation is actually doing. Several of the high-hardness 1K products in this benchmark posted very poor chemical resistance scores — suggesting brittle or insufficiently crosslinked films that are stiff but chemically vulnerable. A lacquer with high König hardness but zero resistance to 48% ethanol at 16 hours does not have good overall durability. It has a hard film. That is not the same thing.

Avenue 2K’s 99-second König result, read alongside its strong chemical resistance and low Taber loss, indicates a formulation that balances hardness, crosslink quality, and chemical integrity together — rather than optimising one metric at the expense of the others.


BHMR and scuff resistance: the real-world appearance test

This is where the benchmark becomes most directly relevant to what a floor looks like over the years of its working life — and it’s the section that deserves the most attention from anyone specifying or applying professional lacquer.

Black heel mark resistance and scuff resistance were assessed on oak wood after a full one-week cure. Each was scored on two dimensions: the black marking left on the surface (0–5, where 5 = no visible mark) and the surface damage sustained (0–5, where 5 = no visible damage). Both dimensions matter — a product might resist marking but still show mechanical damage, or leave a mark that wipes clean while causing no lasting surface change. The two scores together give a fuller picture of how a finish actually behaves under contact stress.

The testing was carried out in two separate ways:

BHMR (black heel mark resistance) — a weighted contact applied to the lacquered surface to simulate the sharp, concentrated loading of a shoe heel strike. This captures what happens under a single high-load impact: a brisk footfall, a pivot, a heel coming down hard on a threshold.

5 x Scuff — this is where the test becomes genuinely illuminating. Rather than a single impact, an abrasive pad is placed under controlled pressure and drawn across the cured lacquer surface five times in succession. The repeated traversal simulates the cumulative low-angle abrasive contact that is the real mechanism of floor finish degradation: a dragged chair leg, a shoe shuffled repeatedly across the same spot, the back-and-forth of a doorway threshold. Five passes under a standardised load is a deliberately modest simulation — real floors endure this kind of contact thousands of times. A product that shows damage after five controlled passes in a lab is telling you something important about how it will perform over years of service.

Why scuff resistance matters more than most people realise

When clients describe a floor as “looking old” or “tired,” they rarely mean it’s been scratched through to bare wood. What they’re describing is the cumulative visual effect of repeated scuffing: a slight haze in the traffic zone, a dulled path across the kitchen, faint drag marks near the dining table. None of these individually break the film — but together, they change how the floor looks in raking light. This is the mechanism the 5 x scuff test is specifically designed to capture.

Industry research into wood floor coating selection confirms that BHMR — which evaluates whether a scuff can be removed and what surface damage remains — is one of the most critical tests for flooring applications precisely because of this link to visible in-service appearance. A coating that allows dirt to embed in soft or damaged surface film creates progressive “dirt paths” in traffic lanes, a well-recognised failure mode that is the single most common reason clients report dissatisfaction with a floor finish long before any film breakthrough occurs.

The results

The 5 x scuff results across the benchmark were among the most differentiating in the entire dataset.

Avenue 2K scored 5/5 on both scuff damage dimensions on oak — both the black marking score and the surface damage score at their maximum. This is the standout result: five repeated pad traversals under controlled pressure on cured oak, and no visible marking, no visible surface damage.

Across the 1K group, scuff performance was considerably more variable and in several cases very poor. Multiple 1K products scored 0 or 1 on scuff damage — meaning visible surface degradation after just five repeated passes. One 1K product scored 0/0 across both scuff dimensions, a complete failure in both marking resistance and surface integrity. This is the lacquer equivalent of what a client sees when they notice the floor is “marking easily” within months of installation. The standout exception within the 1K group was Arboritec Classic+, which posted the strongest scuff scores of any 1K product in the test — a result that separates it meaningfully from its category peers, even if it still cannot match Avenue 2K’s clean 5/5.

Even among the 2K group, scuff performance varied. Avenue 2K’s clean 5/5 scuff damage result on oak was the best in the field — not just the best 2K result, but the best result across all twelve products tested on that dimension.

On BHMR, Avenue 2K scored 5/5 on oak damage — again the top result in the 2K group and equal to the top result across the whole test field.

What this looks like on a real floor

To translate these scores into practical terms: a product that scores 0–1 on scuff damage after five controlled pad traversals in a lab environment, on freshly applied and fully cured oak specimens, is going to show visible wear paths in a real hallway within months. The test is deliberately modest — five passes under a set load, on a pristine specimen. Real floors endure far more.

A product that scores 5/5 under those same conditions — as Avenue 2K did — is demonstrating that the cured film resists not just the first insult, but the fifth, with no accumulation of visible damage. In a real floor, this translates to the high-traffic zones continuing to look like the low-traffic zones for considerably longer. The floor ages more uniformly. The contrast between the corridor path and the undisturbed perimeter develops more slowly. Maintenance intervals extend.

For contractors, this matters commercially as well as technically. A floor that holds its appearance for four or five years before a client calls is a very different proposition to one that looks tired after eighteen months. The scuff resistance data is the clearest predictor in this benchmark of which category each product belongs to.


Chemical resistance: the other dimension of longevity

Chemical resistance was tested on both test chart (opacity card) and oak wood, using a standardised set of reagents at set contact times, scored immediately and after a recovery period (0–5 scale, 5 = no visible effect).

The reagents used were: water at 1h and 16h; ethanol 48% at 1h and 16h; ammonia 10% at 1h; acetic acid 10% at 1h; and coffee at 16h. Each was scored both immediately after removal and again after a recovery period — giving both immediate resistance and the film’s ability to recover once the stressor is removed.

Why these specific reagents?

Each represents a real chemical stressor that a domestic or commercial floor finish encounters in service.

Ethanol 48% represents the alcohol content of hand sanitisers, surface disinfectants, and cleaning sprays. Post-pandemic, high-frequency alcohol-based disinfection has become standard in commercial environments and many domestic ones. A lacquer that fails against 48% ethanol at 16 hours will show visible degradation wherever sanitiser is routinely dispensed or spilled — reception desks, kitchen counters, bar tops, bathroom thresholds.

Ammonia 10% is present in many general-purpose household cleaners, some floor care products, and at lower concentrations in pet urine. A floor finish that deteriorates under ammonia contact will show it quickly in a pet-owner household or any environment where ammoniated cleaners are routine. It’s also worth noting that some cheaper consumer-marketed “wood floor cleaners” contain ammonia compounds — a common cause of premature lacquer failure that often gets blamed on the original finish rather than the cleaning product.

Acetic acid 10% represents vinegar and vinegar-based cleaning products, which remain common in both domestic and food-service environments. Reactivity to acetic acid also gives useful information about the film’s broader sensitivity to mild organic acids — relevant in food prep areas and anywhere with acidic spillage risk.

Water at 16h simulates an extended spill or pooled water that is not cleaned up promptly. A floor finish that whitens, blisters, or softens under prolonged water contact will fail in bathrooms, kitchens, utility rooms, and anywhere that wet cleaning is routine.

Results on test chart

The gap between 1K and 2K formulations was pronounced, and for some 1K products, severe.

Several 1K products scored zero against ethanol at 16 hours — both immediately and after recovery. A score of zero means complete film failure at the test site: visible whitening, softening, or loss of adhesion. Multiple 1K formulations also posted poor to very poor results against ammonia and acetic acid.

Among the 2K formulations, results were generally strong. Avenue 2K scored 5/5 on 16-hour ethanol resistance both immediately and after recovery — a result no 1K product matched. On water at 16h, ammonia, and acetic acid, Avenue 2K consistently returned scores of 4 or 5.

Even within the 2K group, the weakest performer on chemical resistance was a reminder that two-component classification alone doesn’t guarantee uniform quality.

Results on oak

Chemical resistance on real oak is a more demanding and more practically relevant test than on opacity chart. Oak introduces variables around surface porosity, tannin chemistry, and differential absorption that are absent from a flat chart substrate. Performance on oak is closer to what a floor finisher and their client will actually experience.

The 2K formulations performed consistently well on oak across nearly all reagents. Avenue 2K and the other leading 2K products achieved maximum scores against the full ammonia exposure sequence — 2 minutes, 10 minutes, and 1 hour. Most 1K products failed at the 1-hour ammonia mark, with several scoring zero.

Avenue 2K also scored 5/5 on 16-hour water resistance after recovery, and 5/5 on acetic acid after recovery. Its weakest scores on oak were against prolonged ethanol and coffee — a pattern consistent across the entire test group regardless of 1K or 2K classification, suggesting this reflects the current general limits of waterborne lacquer chemistry rather than a specific product weakness.

Arboritec Classic+ was the best-performing 1K in the test group — meaningfully better than its 1K peers, and competitive with some 2K products on specific reagents — but against prolonged ethanol and ammonia, even Classic+ could not match the top 2K performers.


Putting the full picture together

The 1K vs 2K gap is real, systematic, and not about one test

Across every performance dimension measured — Taber abrasion, König hardness, BHMR, scuff resistance, and chemical resistance on both chart and oak — the 2K formulations outperformed the 1K group. In most areas, the gap was not marginal. In scuff resistance and chemical resistance, it was often decisive.

The underlying reason is chemistry. A 2K waterborne lacquer cures through a polyurethane crosslinking reaction between a waterborne polyol (the base component) and an isocyanate hardener (the crosslinker). When fully cured, the result is a dense, tightly crosslinked polymer network with high film integrity. A 1K system relies on oxidation, water evaporation, or coalescence alone — mechanisms that produce a less fully crosslinked film. That difference in network density is what drives the gap in both chemical resistance and scuff behaviour: a tightly crosslinked film resists solvent penetration and surface deformation at the molecular level in ways that a 1K film structurally cannot match.

Not all 2K products are equal

Among the five 2K formulations, meaningful variation existed. Avenue 2K led on mechanical and surface performance — highest König hardness in the group, best BHMR and scuff scores, consistently strong chemical resistance. One 2K formulation posted a notably low Taber loss but had lower König hardness, suggesting a softer, more compliant film — a different formulation trade-off rather than a straight improvement. The weakest 2K performer on chemical resistance was a reminder that 2K classification is a necessary but not sufficient condition for good performance.

Not all 1K products are equal either

Within the 1K group, Arboritec Classic+ consistently outperformed its peers — better BHMR, better scuff resistance, more credible chemical resistance on oak. If a project genuinely requires a 1K system for operational reasons, Classic+ is the evidence-based choice from this test group. The worst 1K performers in this benchmark scored zero on scuff damage and failed multiple chemical resistance tests outright.


When to specify 2K

The benchmark data supports clear specification guidance across project types.

Commercial and high-traffic specifications — restaurants, retail, hotels, offices, entrance areas — should default to 2K as the minimum standard. The scuff resistance data alone makes a compelling case: products that degrade visibly under five controlled pad passes in lab conditions are not suited to environments where hundreds of footfalls per day are the norm.

Residential specifications where appearance longevity matters — clients who care about how their floor looks in year three as well as year one, households with pets, high-activity families, or properties with open-plan kitchen-dining-living areas where a single floor surface takes varied traffic — will see the 2K scuff and chemical resistance advantage express itself as a meaningfully longer interval before the floor looks like it needs attention.

Any project where recoat interval matters — for property managers, landlords, or building operators maintaining multiple floors, the lifecycle cost case for 2K is straightforward. A finish that holds its appearance longer requires maintenance less frequently, and the cost differential of the original product is typically recovered many times over in reduced maintenance labour.

The argument for 1K has always been convenience: no mixing, no pot life, no waste if the job runs short. That is a legitimate operational consideration on small domestic projects with fast turnaround. But the performance data makes clear that convenience has a real cost — and in any environment where the floor’s appearance over the years is part of the brief, that cost is not trivial.


About Arboritec Avenue 2K

Avenue 2K is a waterborne two-component polyurethane lacquer formulated for professional application on wood floors. It combines the crosslinked film durability of a 2K system with a practical mix ratio and working pot life suited to professional site use.

Its performance profile across this benchmark — leading König hardness in the 2K group, the best BHMR and scuff scores across all twelve products tested, consistent top-tier chemical resistance on both test chart and oak — reflects a formulation designed for demanding end-use environments rather than one built around a single headline datasheet number.

The Avenue 2K range extends across the full professional sheen spectrum. At the ultra-matte end, Genuine 5 delivers an almost reflection-free finish that has become increasingly popular for specification work where a natural, low-sheen aesthetic is required — it is also particularly forgiving in terms of hiding minor surface variation and micro-scratching over time. At the opposite end, Genuine Naked is a full-matte 2K finish for projects where the most understated possible appearance is the brief. Between these extremes, the range covers the sheen levels that represent the majority of professional specifications.

Whichever sheen is specified, the underlying 2K chemistry and the performance profile demonstrated in this benchmark remain consistent across the range.

Explore Arboritec Avenue 2K Genuine 5 and Genuine Naked 2k

About Arboritec Classic+

For projects where a 1K system is genuinely the right operational choice — tight turnaround schedules, smaller domestic jobs where pot life management isn’t practical, or situations where a mixing error simply cannot be risked — Classic+ is the product the benchmark data points to.

It also helps explain why Classic+ outperformed every other 1K product in the test group, rather than simply asserting that it did. Classic+ is not a conventional 1K waterborne lacquer — it crosslinks upon application without a separate catalyst, building a degree of network structure into the cured film that standard 1K coalescence systems do not achieve. Combined with Arboritec’s Small Particle Technology (SPT), which integrates ceramic particles deep into the polyurethane matrix to create a denser, harder protective layer, the result is a 1K product that behaves more like a 2K than its category label suggests. That chemistry is the reason for its benchmark-leading scuff and BHMR scores within the 1K field — it isn’t luck or formulation variance, it’s a structural advantage built into how the film cures.

For projects where even more protection is needed, Arboritec Part B hardener can be added to the final coat of Classic+. This takes the product a step further still — introducing an isocyanate crosslinker that drives additional network density in the topcoat — without committing the entire job to a full 2K system with its associated pot life and waste considerations. It is particularly useful in higher-demand areas within an otherwise domestic specification: a hallway or kitchen that takes noticeably heavier traffic than the rest of the floor.

Classic+ is available in Ultra-Matte (5), Satin (20), Semi-Gloss (50), and Gloss (90) — covering the full sheen range for domestic and lighter commercial specifications.

It doesn’t close the gap to Avenue 2K entirely — no 1K system can, and the chemical resistance data in particular shows where the 2K crosslink density advantage remains decisive — but it sits in a fundamentally different category to the weakest 1K performers in this test, several of which failed outright on scuff and chemical resistance.

If 1K is the answer to the question, Classic+ is where the evidence points.

Explore Arboritec Classic+ Explore Arboritec Part B Hardener

Is 2K lacquer always better than 1K for wood floors?

In terms of raw performance — abrasion resistance, scuff resistance, and chemical resistance — yes, the independent benchmark data is consistent: 2K systems outperform 1K systems across every metric tested. However, “better” depends on context. For a small domestic bedroom with light traffic and straightforward cleaning, a high-quality 1K like Classic+ may be entirely adequate and operationally easier to apply. For anything with sustained foot traffic, frequent wet cleaning, or exposure to alcohol-based products, the performance gap makes 2K the more defensible specification.

What is the difference between the CS-17 and CS-10 Taber wheel?

Both are used in standardised abrasion testing, but they simulate different types of wear. The CS-10 is a softer wheel that replicates mild everyday abrasion — the kind of micro-scratching from foot traffic and cleaning that gradually dulls a floor’s sheen over time. The CS-17 is a harder, more aggressive wheel that simulates the concentrated mechanical stress of high-traffic zones: grit underfoot, furniture legs, heavy footfall. Most manufacturer datasheets use the CS-10, which produces more favourable numbers. The benchmark discussed in this post used the CS-17 — the more demanding and more revealing of the two.

A Taber abrasion figure of 24mg sounds like a lot of wear. Will the lacquer actually wear through?

No — and this is one of the most common misunderstandings around Taber data. The mg loss figure is a comparative measure under a deliberately aggressive, concentrated test load. In real-world use on a properly applied floor, the finish will show cosmetic wear — a gradual loss of sheen in traffic lanes — long before there is any risk of the film wearing through to bare wood. The Taber figure tells you how one product compares to another, not how many footsteps the floor will tolerate. A product posting 24mg versus one posting 72mg will hold its appearance meaningfully longer under equivalent real-world conditions.

What makes Classic+ different from other 1K lacquers?

Two things separate Classic+ from conventional 1K products. First, it crosslinks upon application without a separate catalyst — building a more developed polymer network in the cured film than standard 1K systems, which rely on coalescence or oxidation alone. Second, it incorporates ceramic particles via Arboritec’s Small Particle Technology (SPT), which creates a denser, harder protective layer without compromising film clarity. These two characteristics explain why Classic+ outperformed every other 1K product in a twelve-product independent benchmark across scuff resistance, BHMR, and chemical resistance on oak.

Can I add a hardener to Classic+ to improve performance further?

Yes. Arboritec Part B hardener can be added to the final coat of Classic+ for projects where an additional level of protection is needed — higher-traffic areas, or rooms where chemical exposure is more likely. Adding Part B introduces an isocyanate crosslinker that drives additional network density specifically in the topcoat, pushing performance closer still to a full 2K system. The rest of the job can be applied as standard 1K, so the added complexity is limited to a single coat where it matters most.

Does sheen level affect the durability of Avenue 2K?

No — the 2K polyurethane chemistry and the performance profile it delivers are consistent across the Avenue range regardless of sheen. Genuine 5 (ultra-matte) and Genuine Naked (full-matte) use the same underlying 2K crosslinked system as the mid-sheen options. Sheen level is controlled by matting agents in the formulation and does not affect abrasion resistance, scuff resistance, or chemical resistance in any meaningful way.

Why does my floor lacquer deteriorate where we use hand sanitiser?

Hand sanitisers typically contain 60–70% ethanol or isopropanol. The benchmark tested chemical resistance against 48% ethanol — already a demanding standard — and several 1K products in the test showed complete film failure at 16-hour exposure, scoring zero. In practice, a sanitiser dispenser that drips onto a lacquered floor repeatedly over months creates exactly this type of prolonged alcohol contact. 2K systems — and specifically those that perform well on the ethanol resistance test — are far more resistant to this failure mode. If sanitiser contact is a regular occurrence in a space, it is a strong argument for a 2K specification.

Is waterborne 2K lacquer suitable for commercial floors?

Yes — modern waterborne 2K polyurethane lacquers are formulated specifically for high-demand commercial environments. The performance data in this benchmark reflects testing conditions designed to simulate commercial-level stress: CS-17 Taber abrasion, extended chemical exposure, and repeated scuff cycles. Avenue 2K achieved the highest mechanical scores in the 2K test group and is suitable for restaurants, retail, hospitality, offices, and high-traffic residential applications.

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Oiled vs Lacquered Wood Floors: How to Tell and Care for Each

One question comes up more than almost any other when people contact us about wood floor care: I do not actually know what finish my floor has, does it matter?

It matters a great deal. Use the wrong cleaner on the wrong finish and you can strip protection, leave a sticky residue, or create a dull haze that no amount of mopping will shift. Get it right, and a wood floor can look better at ten years old than it did when it was laid.

This guide shows you how to tell which finish you have in about thirty seconds, what each one needs day to day, and how to keep it looking its best for the long term.

The short version

  1. Lacquer sits on top. A clear, hard film protects the wood. Clean it with a pH neutral cleaner and refresh the film when it dulls.
  2. Oil lives in the wood. There is no film, so the oil needs topping up. Use Oil Refresher every fifth clean and a maintenance oil when the floor looks dry.
  3. Not sure which you have? Put a drop of water on the floor. A tight bead means lacquer. If it spreads or darkens the wood, the floor is oiled.

The most common cause of a dull, sticky wood floor is the wrong cleaner, used for too long, at too strong a dilution.

For contractors

Hand this guide over with every finished floor

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01
The basics

What is the difference between an oiled and a lacquered wood floor?

These two finishes behave in very different ways. Not just in how they look, but in how they protect the wood and how they need to be looked after.

Lacquered floors

Coated with a surface film, usually a waterborne or UV cured polyurethane or acrylic lacquer, that sits on top of the wood rather than soaking in. Think of it as a hard, clear shell. That shell is what you walk on, clean and protect. In good condition it is very durable and water resistant. When it wears through, the wood underneath is suddenly exposed.

Oiled floors

The oil soaks into the wood fibres and protects from within rather than sitting on the surface. There is no film and no shell, just treated wood. That gives oiled floors their warmth and natural feel underfoot. The trade off is that they need more regular care to keep the oil topped up, and they are less forgiving of liquid left sitting on the surface.

Neither finish is better in every way. They suit different priorities, different homes and different ways of living.

02
Thirty seconds

How to tell which finish you have

If the paperwork from when the floor was laid has gone, or you have moved into a property with existing wood floors, there is a simple test.

  1. Pick a quiet corner where a mark would not show.
  2. Place a single drop of water on the floor.
  3. Wait two to three minutes, then look closely and wipe it away.
Water sits in a beadLacquer film on top

A tight, round bead

The water sits up and wipes away cleanly without a mark. You almost certainly have a lacquered floor. The film is repelling the water.

Water soaks inOil inside the wood

It spreads, soaks in or darkens

The water flattens out or leaves a slightly darker patch when wiped. Your floor is oiled. The water is being drawn into the open wood pores.

Still unsure? Look along the floor towards a window so the light rakes across it. Lacquered floors show a subtle sheen even in matt grades, because you can see the film catching the light. Oiled floors look and feel more like bare wood, show the grain texture more clearly and feel less plasticky underfoot.

Good to know

A worn oiled floor can let water soak in quickly even where the oil is still present elsewhere. If one area behaves differently to the rest, that part of the floor is usually telling you it needs maintenance.

03
At a glance

Oiled vs lacquered, side by side

The key differences in one place. Use it to understand the floor you have, or to decide what you want on a newly sanded one.

Oiled floorLacquered floor
How it protectsOil soaks into the wood fibresA hard film sits on the surface
Look and feelNatural, warm, close to bare woodFrom invisible matt to satin and gloss
Water and spillsWipe up promptly, do not let liquid sitVery water resistant while the film is intact
Everyday cleaningpH neutral cleaner, damp moppH neutral cleaner, damp mop
Ongoing careOil Refresher every fifth clean, maintenance oil when dryRefresher once or twice a year in most homes
ScratchesOften repaired locally with a little maintenance oilThrough scratches need sanding and refinishing
When it is worn outRe oil, usually without a full sandScreen and recoat, or a full sand and refinish
Often chosen forCharacter floors and a natural lookBusy homes and heavy traffic areas
04
Day to day

Cleaning: what is safe for each finish

This is where most people go wrong. Not through neglect, but by using products that seem reasonable and are actually unsuitable for their floor.

Both finishesThe universal rules

  • Sweep or vacuum before you mop. Always. Grit is abrasive, and dragging a damp mop over it is the fastest way to create the micro scratches that dull a floor. Use a soft bristle broom or a vacuum on its hard floor setting, never a beater bar.
  • Use a well wrung microfibre mop, not a wet one. Wood and standing water do not mix, whatever the finish. Damp is fine. Wet is not.
  • Get the dilution right. More product does not mean a cleaner floor. Too strong a mix leaves a residue that builds into a dull, sticky film.

Lacquered floorsUse a pH neutral cleaner made for lacquer

Anything acidic will slowly etch the lacquer film, and anything strongly alkaline can soften or cloud it. Avoid products sold as floor soap, wood soap or natural cleaner on lacquer. They are usually designed for oiled floors and leave a residue on lacquer that builds into a dull, greasy film.

Arboritec Cleaner Concentrate is pH neutral and dries in around 15 minutes with no rinsing. For a no measuring option, the Arboritec Cleaner Spray comes ready mixed in a 750ml bottle, ideal for quick cleans and smaller areas. The Arboritec Spray Mop Kit pairs a spray mop with 1L of Cleaner Concentrate, so everything is in one box.

Dilution
10ml per litre
Water
Lukewarm
Rinse
Not needed

Oiled floorsSame principle, plus regular top ups

Day to day, the rule is the same: a pH neutral cleaner, a damp mop and no standing water. Arboritec Cleaner Concentrate is our everyday cleaner for oiled floors too, and it is the cleaner in our oiled floor maintenance bundle.

The difference is that every clean slowly uses up a little of the oil, so an oiled floor needs topping up as part of the routine. That is what Oil Refresher is for, covered in the next section.

  • Arboritec Cleaner Concentrate 1L pH neutral wood floor cleaner
    Everyday cleaningArboritec Cleaner ConcentratepH neutral concentrate, 10ml per litre of waterRetail from £28.03 + VATTrade price: log in to see itView product
  • Arboritec Cleaner Spray ready mixed wood floor cleaner 750ml
    Quick cleansArboritec Cleaner SprayReady mixed, 750ml spray bottleRetail £9.85 + VATTrade price: log in to see itView product
  • Arboritec Spray Mop Kit with 1L Cleaner Concentrate
    Complete kitArboritec Spray Mop KitSpray mop with 1L of Cleaner ConcentrateRetail £46.77 + VATTrade price: log in to see itView product

Either finishWhat to avoid

  • Steam mops. Heat and moisture together damage both lacquer and oil, and can make boards swell or warp.
  • Vinegar or citrus cleaners. They are acidic and damage both finishes over time, however natural they seem.
  • Washing up liquid or general household floor cleaners. Made for hard, non porous surfaces. They leave residue, strip protection, or both.
  • Oil soap on lacquered floors. A very common mistake. Oil soap is made for oiled floors and leaves a greasy film on lacquer that attracts dirt.
05
Oiled floors

Maintaining an oiled floor: the part most people underestimate

Oiled floors have a reputation for being high maintenance. That is partly deserved and often misunderstood. The upkeep is not difficult or time consuming. What it needs is regularity.

The oil in a wood floor is not permanent. Foot traffic, cleaning and everyday use slowly deplete it. As the oil level drops the wood becomes thirstier and more open to staining and moisture. The signs are a loss of warmth and depth in the colour, or busy areas starting to look grey or dull next to quieter parts of the room.

Step one, routineOil Refresher every fifth clean

Arboritec Oil Refresher is a floor soap made with saponified natural pine oil. Use it in place of your normal cleaner about every fifth clean. It cleans and re oils at the same time, so the floor is being topped up as part of the routine rather than as a separate job. A white version is available for white oiled floors.

  1. Sweep or vacuum to remove dust and grit.
  2. Mix 50ml of Oil Refresher with 1 litre of cold water.
  3. Mop with a damp, not wet, mop. No rinsing needed.
  4. If a light matt film shows once dry, buff with a dry cotton cloth.

Step two, when it looks dryMaintenance Oil when refreshing is no longer enough

Used consistently, Oil Refresher pushes deeper maintenance much further apart. In many homes that means a maintenance oil every few years rather than every year. When busy areas start to look dry despite regular refreshing, it is time for Arboritec Maintenance Oil, Satin. It is a ready to use, 38% solids oil that also suits UV oiled factory finished floors.

  1. Clean the floor thoroughly and let it dry.
  2. Shake the bottle well.
  3. Apply a thin, even layer with a cloth, mop or applicator pad and work it into the grain.
  4. Leave 3 to 4 hours before walking on it. Buff lightly for an even sheen if you like. Fully cured in 24 hours.
The spot repair advantage

Scratches, scuffs and small damaged areas on an oiled floor can often be repaired on their own. Apply a little maintenance oil to the area, work it in and blend the edges. On a lacquered floor, a scratch that reaches the wood means sanding back and refinishing that area, and matching the sheen of the surrounding floor is notoriously difficult.

If an oiled floor has years of polish, wax or grease build up on it, Arboritec Remover lifts it before maintenance. Mix it with lukewarm water, do not let it dry on the floor, and wipe over with clean water afterwards.

  • Arboritec Oil Refresher floor soap for oiled wood floors
    Every fifth cleanArboritec Oil RefresherCleans and re oils in one step, also in whiteRetail from £24.30 + VATTrade price: log in to see itView product
  • Arboritec Maintenance Oil Satin for oiled wood floors
    When it looks dryMaintenance Oil, Satin38% solids maintenance oil, also for UV oiled floorsRetail from £31.52 + VATTrade price: log in to see itView product
  • Arboritec oiled floor maintenance bundle
    Everything togetherOiled Floor Maintenance BundleOur complete trio for oiled floor care, at a savingRetail £75.47 + VATTrade price: log in to see itView product
06
Lacquered floors

Maintaining a lacquered floor: less often, but critical when needed

Day to day, a lacquered floor is low effort. Sweep, damp mop with the right cleaner, done. The lacquer film does the heavy lifting.

What it does need is attention to the condition of that film over time. A lacquer in good condition is hard and protective. A lacquer worn thin, particularly in hallways and doorways, offers little protection and starts to look patchy.

When it looks flatRefresher once or twice a year

Arboritec Refresher puts lacquer particles back into the surface and restores sheen to a tired floor without sanding. It is self dissolving, so each application breaks down the last one instead of building up layers. In most homes, once or twice a year is enough. Busier commercial floors may need it more often.

  1. Clean the floor first with Cleaner Concentrate and let it dry fully.
  2. Pour Refresher straight onto the floor. Do not dilute it.
  3. Spread thin and even with a clean, damp mop or lint free cloth.
  4. Allow about 1 hour before walking on it.
Before you use Refresher

If the floor has ever been treated with polish or wax, deep clean it with Arboritec Remover first, or you may see streaks. Refresher is for lacquered floors only, not oiled ones. If the floor is finished in Arboritec Genuine Naked, Refresher may raise the sheen, so ask us before using it.

Deeper wear, or wear that has gone through to the wood, normally needs the floor sanding back and refinishing, either a screen and recoat or a full sand depending on the depth. That is a job for a professional floor contractor rather than a DIY project.

  • Arboritec Refresher for lacquered wood floors
    Once or twice a yearArboritec RefresherRestores sheen to lacquered floors, no build upRetail from £18.69 + VATTrade price: log in to see itView product
  • Arboritec lacquered floor maintenance bundle with Cleaner Concentrate and Refresher
    Everything togetherLacquered Floor Maintenance BundleCleaner Concentrate 1L and Refresher 1LRetail £46.72 + VATTrade price: log in to see itView product
  • Arboritec Remover wax and polish remover for wood floors
    Deep cleanArboritec RemoverLifts old wax, polish and grease build upRetail £13.18 + VATTrade price: log in to see itView product
07
New or sanded floors

Choosing between oil and lacquer

If your floor is being sanded, or you are fitting a new unfinished floor, you get to choose. Changing later means a full sand back to bare wood, so it is worth getting right first time.

  • Choose oil ifYou want the most natural look and feel, you like the idea of repairing small areas yourself, and you are happy with a regular top up as part of cleaning.
  • Choose lacquer ifThe floor takes heavy traffic, spills are likely, or you want the lowest day to day maintenance with a refresh once or twice a year.

What we supplyThe Arboritec finishes behind each option

For oil, Arboritec Miracle Oil 2K is a two component, 100% solid oil available in a range of colours, and Arboritec Hard Wax Oil is an oxidative hardening oil for indoor wood floors. Miracle Oil sample bottles let you test a colour on the wood before committing. See Miracle Oil 2K on a real oak floor in our Higham Hall case study by BC Stone and Floor Care.

For lacquer, the Arboritec range runs from Genuine Naked 2K, the lowest sheen in the range and virtually invisible on the floor, through Avenue 2K for heavy traffic, to 1K options such as Classic+ with no hardener to mix. Our lacquer page compares every option, and the lacquer coverage calculator works out quantities.

Switching finish, and the Miracle Oil exception

Most oils cannot be lacquered over, because the oil in the wood stops the lacquer bonding and it can peel or stay tacky. Arboritec Miracle Oil 2K is the exception. Unlike most hardwax oils, it can be top coated with Arboritec 2K waterborne finishes such as Avenue or Genuine, giving the colour of an oil with the protection and easy care of a lacquer. Follow the technical data sheet for timings, or ask us before you start. An older oiled floor with years of maintenance products in it, or a lacquered floor going to oil, still needs a full sand back to bare wood.

Everything for oiled and lacquered floors

We are the UK supplier for Arboritec, with cleaners, maintenance products, oils and lacquers in stock for next working day delivery.

  • Orders placed Mon to Fri before 2PM are dispatched the same day for next working day delivery
  • Not sure what your floor needs? Contact us
Questions

Frequently asked questions

Can I switch from oiled to lacquered, or the other way round?

Usually only after sanding the floor back to bare wood. Most oils cannot be lacquered over, because the oil stops the lacquer bonding and it can peel or stay tacky. The exception is Arboritec Miracle Oil 2K, which can be top coated with Arboritec 2K waterborne finishes such as Avenue or Genuine. Going from lacquer to oil always needs the film sanded off first.

Can you put lacquer over Miracle Oil?

Yes. Unlike most hardwax oils, Arboritec Miracle Oil 2K can be top coated with Arboritec 2K waterborne finishes such as Avenue or Genuine for extra protection and easier maintenance. Check the technical data sheet for timings, or ask us before you start.

My floor is dull and nothing seems to clean it. What is happening?

The most common cause is product build up, usually from the wrong cleaner or too strong a dilution over a long period. Floor soaps, wax based products and some multi surface cleaners all leave residues that accumulate. Arboritec Remover lifts the build up, then a regular routine with the right cleaner should bring the floor back.

Is engineered wood looked after the same way as solid wood?

Yes, in terms of surface care. The finish, oiled or lacquered, decides the routine, not whether the boards are solid or engineered. The same products apply.

How do I know when an oiled floor needs more oil?

The water drop test works here too. If water beads on the surface, the oil protection is still active. If it soaks in quickly, the floor needs maintenance. Visually, look for areas that have lost their warmth and richness compared with quieter parts of the room.

Can I use Arboritec Cleaner on both oiled and lacquered floors?

Yes. Arboritec Cleaner Concentrate is pH neutral and is the everyday cleaner we supply for both finishes, which makes it a practical choice if a property has a mix of floors. Oiled floors also need Oil Refresher about every fifth clean.

Can I use Arboritec Refresher on an oiled floor?

No. Refresher is made for lacquered floors. For oiled floors use Arboritec Oil Refresher, which cleans and re oils in one step.

Is a steam mop safe on a wood floor?

No. The combination of heat and moisture damages both lacquer and oil finishes and can make boards swell or warp. A well wrung microfibre mop with a pH neutral cleaner is the safe option.

Which finish is more hard wearing?

A lacquer in good condition gives the most surface protection against water, spills and heavy traffic. An oiled floor shows wear sooner but is easier to repair, because small areas can be re oiled without refinishing the whole floor.

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Is Porcelain Really “Bombproof”? The Truth About Acids and Etching

orcelain floor tile with an acid etch mark, illustrating that porcelain is not bombproof against all acids

Porcelain has a reputation. Ask around a showroom or a building site and you’ll hear the same word again and again: bombproof. Hard-wearing, stain-proof, acid-proof, basically indestructible. And to be fair, porcelain is one of the toughest surfaces you can put down. But “tough” and “invincible” are not the same thing — and the gap between them is where a lot of avoidable damage happens.

The truth is that some acids can and do etch porcelain. Knowing which ones, why it happens, and where the real risk lies is the difference between a floor that lasts decades and one that’s permanently dulled by a single bad cleaning decision.

Why porcelain earned its reputation

Porcelain’s strength comes from how it’s made. The clay body is fired at very high temperatures until the particles fuse — a process called vitrification — producing an extremely dense, low-porosity material. That density is the whole point: very little water gets in, very few stains can take hold, and most everyday chemicals simply sit on the surface and wipe away.

This is genuinely why porcelain shrugs off the things that would wreck natural stone. Spill lemon juice or vinegar on polished marble and you’ll get a dull etch mark within minutes, because the acid reacts with the calcium carbonate in the stone. Porcelain has no calcium carbonate to attack, so those same kitchen acids usually do nothing at all. That real-world resilience is where the “bombproof” myth comes from — it’s an exaggeration built on a genuine strength.

So where does the myth break down?

In two places: the type of porcelain, and the type of acid.

Not all porcelain surfaces are equal

The first thing to understand is that “porcelain” is not one single surface. The body of the tile and the finish on top of it behave very differently.

Glazed porcelain has a thin, glass-like layer fused to the surface. That glaze is essentially a coating, and it carries most of the look — the colour, the pattern, the sheen. It’s also the part most vulnerable to chemical attack. Corrosive cleaners used regularly can dull, cloud, or roughen a glaze long before they’d ever touch the dense body underneath. Crucially, once a glaze is etched, you can’t repolish it the way you can grind and restore natural stone — the damage is permanent, and the only fix is replacing the tile.

Unglazed and full-bodied porcelain has no separate glass layer; the colour runs through the whole tile. These are more chemically robust on the surface, but because the exposed body can be slightly more porous than a glaze, aggressive acids have a different route to cause trouble over time.

The practical takeaway: the more decorative and high-gloss the surface, the more you should respect what you’re putting on it.

Not all acids behave the same

Here’s the part that surprises people. The everyday household acids — citric (lemon, vinegar), acetic, and even hydrochloric to a large degree — are well tolerated by quality porcelain. The tile body stays structurally intact under normal exposure. This is exactly why porcelain feels bombproof in a domestic kitchen.

But one acid is in a completely different league: hydrofluoric acid (HF). And it’s the exception that destroys the whole “acid-proof” claim.

How hydrofluoric acid actually etches porcelain

To understand why HF is special, you have to look at what porcelain is made of chemically. The hardness and density of porcelain come largely from silica — silicon dioxide — locked into a glassy, vitrified structure. Almost every common acid leaves that silica network alone. That’s the source of porcelain’s chemical stability.

Hydrofluoric acid is the one acid that attacks silica directly. The fluoride reacts with the silicon-oxygen structure and breaks it down, converting the solid silica into soluble compounds that wash away. In plain terms: HF doesn’t just sit on the surface — it dissolves it.

The result is microscopic. The acid eats into the surface and leaves behind tiny pits, valleys, and ridges where solid, smooth material used to be. On a glazed tile it can etch straight through the glaze and expose the more porous body beneath. This isn’t a stain or a film you can scrub off — it’s a permanent change to the structure of the surface itself.

This effect is so reliable that it’s used deliberately. Anti-slip treatments for tiled floors are frequently HF-based: the acid roughens the surface on purpose to increase grip. Porcelain refinishers use it to “key” a surface so a new coating will stick. The same chemistry that makes HF a useful industrial tool is exactly what makes it catastrophic when it shows up uninvited in a cleaning product.

Why this matters in the real world

You’re not likely to splash hydrofluoric acid around by accident at home. But HF and related fluoride compounds (such as ammonium bifluoride) turn up in places people don’t expect — most notably in some heavy-duty rust removers, certain aluminium and alloy wheel cleaners, some “tough” industrial descalers, and a number of aggressive multi-surface cleaners marketed on the strength of how powerful they are.

The danger is precisely that porcelain’s “bombproof” reputation makes people careless. Someone reaches for the strongest cleaner on the shelf to shift a stubborn mark, assumes porcelain can take anything, and unknowingly applies a fluoride-based product. The etch that follows is permanent, and no amount of polishing brings it back.

A few principles protect you:

  • Read the active ingredients. Be cautious with anything listing hydrofluoric acid, ammonium bifluoride, or fluoride compounds. These are the genuine threat to porcelain — far more than the citric or acetic acids people usually worry about.
  • “Stronger” is not “safer for the job.” The most aggressive product on the shelf is often the wrong choice. Matching the cleaner to the surface beats reaching for maximum strength every time.
  • Respect the glaze. High-gloss and decorative glazed surfaces are the most vulnerable. Treat them with more care than a full-bodied technical tile.
  • Spot-test in a hidden area. If you’re ever unsure about a cleaner, test it somewhere out of sight first. A small test patch is cheaper than a replaced floor.
  • Routine cleaning should be gentle. Day to day, porcelain needs far less than people assume. A suitable pH-balanced or correctly specified cleaner handles the vast majority of jobs without any risk.

The kinds of products to watch for

You won’t find hydrofluoric acid sitting on a supermarket shelf labelled as such, and most general-purpose cleaners are perfectly safe. The risk lives in a handful of specialist, heavy-duty product categories where fluoride compounds are used precisely because they’re aggressive:

  • Alloy and aluminium wheel cleaners. Some of the stronger “acid” wheel cleaners use fluoride compounds to cut through brake dust and oxidation. These are a common source of accidental HF exposure in domestic and trade settings alike.
  • Heavy-duty rust and scale removers. Certain industrial-grade rust removers and metal restorers rely on fluoride chemistry to break down stubborn deposits.
  • Aggressive masonry, brick and stone cleaners. A number of “professional strength” or “builder’s” acid cleaners used to remove cement haze, efflorescence, or mortar residue contain hydrofluoric acid or bifluorides — and these get used near or on tiled surfaces.
  • Some industrial descalers and glass-etching products. Anything specifically designed to etch glass is, by definition, attacking silica — exactly the same mechanism that damages porcelain.

The unifying theme is that these are all specialist products sold on the strength of how powerful they are. The marketing that makes them appealing (“dissolves anything,” “professional strength”) is the same marketing that should make you check the label before it goes anywhere near porcelain.

Names to look for on the label

Product names and formulations change, so the only reliable check is the ingredients list or safety data sheet (SDS). Treat a product with real caution if you see any of these:

  • Hydrofluoric acid
  • Ammonium bifluoride (also written as ammonium hydrogen fluoride)
  • Ammonium fluoride
  • Sodium bifluoride

If any of those appear, assume the product can permanently etch porcelain and keep it well away from your floors — regardless of what the front of the bottle promises. Reading the label this way protects you against any product, including ones not yet on the market.

The honest verdict

Porcelain is exceptional — dense, durable, and far more chemically resistant than almost anything else you’ll put on a floor. It genuinely does resist the acids most people encounter day to day. That part of its reputation is earned.

But “bombproof” is marketing, not chemistry. The silica that gives porcelain its strength has one clear weakness, and hydrofluoric acid exploits it completely. Understanding that single exception is what separates people who maintain porcelain confidently from those who damage it by trusting a myth.

Tough as it is, porcelain still rewards knowing what you’re cleaning it with. Choose the right product, respect the surface, and it really will last a lifetime.

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Faber Hidro 150 — The Complete Guide to Professional Stone Sealing, the Science Behind It, and Why Not All Sealers Are Equal

The stone sealer guide

When a beautiful natural stone surface gets laid or installed — marble in a hallway, travertine in a kitchen, limestone flags in a period farmhouse, a granite worktop in a newly fitted kitchen — the question of how to protect it properly is one of the most important decisions the homeowner or contractor will make. Get it right and that surface will look exceptional and be easy to maintain for years. Get it wrong and the stone will stain, absorb oils and moisture, and deteriorate in a way that is expensive and sometimes impossible to reverse.

The market for stone sealers is not short of options. But understanding what separates a genuinely professional sealer from a basic one requires looking beyond the label and understanding a little of the chemistry involved. This guide explains exactly what Faber Hidro 150 is, how it works at a scientific level, why that matters in practice, and what to look for — and look out for — when choosing a stone sealer in the UK.

What is Faber Hidro 150?

Faber Hidro 150 is a professional grade water based impregnating stone sealer made by Faber Chimica, an Italian surface care manufacturer with decades of formulation expertise behind their professional product range. Its intended use, as stated on its safety data sheet, is as a water based stain-proof impregnator for natural stone and tile surfaces.

It is one of the few professional grade stone impregnators that carries independent food contact certification — making it suitable not just for floors but for kitchen worktops, dining tables and food preparation surfaces where other sealers are entirely unsuitable.

Faber Hidro 150 is available in the UK from HF Flooring Supplies in 1 litre and 5 litre sizes with next working day delivery on orders placed before 2pm Monday to Friday.

What Does Impregnating Actually Mean?

The term impregnating sealer is used widely in the stone care industry but it is worth understanding precisely what it means — and more importantly what it does not mean.

An impregnating sealer penetrates below the surface of the stone and provides protection from within the pore structure rather than forming a film or coating on top of the stone surface. This is fundamentally different from a surface sealer or topcoat, which sits on the stone and can peel, scratch, dull and require stripping and reapplication over time.

A good impregnating sealer leaves the stone looking natural — no surface sheen, no plastic appearance, no change to the texture underfoot. The stone looks and feels like stone. It just repels water and oil rather than absorbing them.

However — and this is critical — not all impregnating sealers are equal. The term describes the delivery method, not the quality of the chemistry doing the protecting. What matters enormously is what active ingredient is being delivered into those pores and what it does once it gets there. And equally important — whether the carrier vehicle actually gives the active ingredient enough time to get there at all.

The Chemistry That Makes Hidro 150 Different

The active sealing ingredient in Faber Hidro 150 is tripotassium propylsilanetriolate — a professional grade organosilane compound. This is transparently disclosed on the product safety data sheet at a concentration of 1-1.5%. Understanding what this does, and why it matters, requires a brief explanation of how stone sealing works at a molecular level.

The pore structure of natural stone

Natural stone — marble, limestone, travertine, granite, sandstone, slate — is a porous material. Even stone that appears smooth and dense to the naked eye contains a network of microscopic pores and capillaries running through its structure. These pores are what make unsealed stone vulnerable to staining — liquids, oils and contaminants are drawn into them by capillary action and become trapped within the stone.

The walls of these pores are covered in hydroxyl groups — chemical attachment points on the stone surface at a molecular level. These hydroxyl groups are reactive, and this reactivity is exactly what professional organosilane chemistry exploits.

What happens when Hidro 150 penetrates the stone

When Hidro 150 is applied to the stone surface, its water based carrier allows the active ingredient to penetrate into the pore structure. Once inside the pores, the curing process begins.

The tripotassium propylsilanetriolate undergoes hydrolysis — reacting with moisture present in the stone and in the atmosphere — to generate reactive silanol groups. These silanol groups then react with the hydroxyl groups on the pore walls, forming strong covalent Si-O-Si bonds. These are siloxane bonds — the same type of chemical bond that gives quartz and silica their structural integrity.

The result is that the active ingredient becomes chemically bonded to the walls of the pores themselves — not deposited in the middle of the pore, not sitting as a film, but covalently grafted to the actual surface of the pore walls throughout the depth of penetration.

Simultaneously, the silanol groups on adjacent active ingredient molecules react with each other — crosslinking to form a continuous polymer network that lines the pore walls from the inside. This crosslinked network is the hydrophobic and oleophobic barrier that repels water and oil.

Why this matters in plain terms

Think of the pores in your stone as a network of tiny tunnels running through the material. Hidro 150 does not block those tunnels — it lines the walls of every tunnel with a permanent water and oil repellent coating that is chemically welded in place at a molecular level.

Because the protection is on the pore walls rather than blocking the pore itself, the stone remains breathable. Air and water vapour can still move freely through the pore structure — important for moisture management in natural stone, particularly in older properties, ground floor installations and surfaces over underfloor heating systems. But liquid water and oil encounter the hydrophobic lining and bead up rather than being absorbed.

This is fundamentally different from a sealer that simply deposits a physical barrier of dried material in the pores. A deposited barrier can be worn away, dissolved or displaced over time. A chemically crosslinked organosilane network that is covalently bonded to the stone substrate is part of the stone’s pore structure — and it is significantly more durable and longer lasting as a result.

The paint on a wall versus the dye in fabric

A useful way to think about the difference between a basic deposited sealer and professional organosilane chemistry:

You could paint a piece of fabric red. The paint sits on the surface, looks right initially, but cracks, peels and wears away over time. The fabric underneath was never changed.

Or you could dye it red. The dye penetrates the fibres and chemically bonds with them. The colour becomes part of the fabric itself. It does not peel, it does not sit on top — it is in there.

That is the difference between a basic deposited sealer and what tripotassium propylsilanetriolate does inside the pores of your stone. One coats. The other bonds.

Why the Carrier Matters as Much as the Active Ingredient

There is an aspect of stone sealer performance that almost nobody in the consumer market discusses but that makes a significant practical difference to how well a sealer actually works — the evaporation rate of the carrier solvent.

For an impregnating sealer to do its job properly, the carrier — the liquid vehicle that transports the active ingredient into the stone — needs to remain in liquid form long enough to carry that active ingredient down into the pore structure to a meaningful depth. The active ingredient is then deposited and bonded within the pore network as the carrier evaporates off.

If the carrier evaporates too quickly, the active ingredient never makes it deep into the stone. It gets deposited at or near the surface as the carrier flashes off, rather than being distributed throughout the pore structure where it can provide genuine long term protection. The result looks like impregnation but functionally behaves more like a superficial surface deposit.

The fast evaporating solvent problem

Isopropyl alcohol — a solvent used as the primary ingredient in some stone sealers at concentrations as high as 92% — has a flashpoint of just 12°C. At a normal UK room temperature of around 20°C you are already 8 degrees above that flashpoint. Isopropyl alcohol is a fast evaporating solvent under any conditions, and at typical UK indoor temperatures it volatilises rapidly from the moment it contacts the stone surface.

This creates a fundamental problem for penetration. The carrier is flashing off quickly — potentially before the active ingredient has had the opportunity to be carried to any meaningful depth within the pore structure. What you are left with is likely a predominantly surface level deposit of whatever active ingredient is present, rather than the deep impregnation the product claims to deliver.

The situation is compounded in warmer conditions — a sun warmed stone patio on a summer day, underfloor heating running beneath a kitchen floor, a warm room in a well heated British home. The higher the surface temperature above the flashpoint, the faster the alcohol evaporates and the shorter the penetration window becomes.

Why water based chemistry has a fundamental advantage here

Water has a boiling point of 100°C and a significantly lower evaporation rate than isopropyl alcohol at normal room temperatures. A water based sealer carrier remains in liquid form at the stone surface for considerably longer than a fast evaporating alcohol solvent — giving the active ingredient the dwell time it needs to penetrate properly into the pore structure before the carrier evaporates.

This is one of the genuinely underappreciated practical advantages of water based professional sealers. The slower evaporation rate of water as a carrier is not a limitation — it is a feature. It is what allows the active ingredient to be delivered where it actually needs to be.

Faber Hidro 150’s water based carrier stays liquid at the stone surface long enough for the tripotassium propylsilanetriolate active to penetrate into the pore structure, react with the pore walls, and begin the crosslinking and bonding process that delivers genuine long lasting protection throughout the depth of the stone.

In plain terms

If your carrier evaporates faster than your active ingredient can sink into the stone, you are not impregnating the stone — you are coating the surface of it. And a surface deposit, however it got there, will never perform as well or last as long as chemistry that has genuinely penetrated and bonded within the stone’s pore structure.

The carrier is not just packaging. It is a fundamental part of how well the sealer actually works.

What the Safety Data Sheet Tells You

For anyone who wants to verify the quality of a stone sealer before buying it, the safety data sheet is the most reliable source of information available. SDS sheets are legal documents and must accurately reflect a product’s composition.

The Faber Hidro 150 SDS is transparent about its formulation. The active sealing ingredient — tripotassium propylsilanetriolate — is listed at 1-1.5% concentration. The carrier is predominantly water, with isopropanol present at only 1-1.5% and methoxypropanol at less than 0.1%. The product is explicitly classified as incombustible, carries no transport hazard classification, and requires no UN number for shipping — entirely consistent with a water based formulation presenting minimal physical hazard.

The hazard classification is modest — signal word Warning, not Danger — covering eye and skin irritation only, consistent with the slightly alkaline pH of the product.

This transparency is worth noting. Professional manufacturers with genuine active chemistry are not shy about disclosing it — the active ingredient is their competitive advantage and the SDS reflects it clearly.

What to look for in any stone sealer SDS:

  • Is the active sealing ingredient named and identified?
  • What is it and what concentration is it present at?
  • What is the carrier — water based or predominantly solvent?
  • What is the flammability classification?
  • What transport hazard classification does it carry?
  • What signal word does it carry — Warning or Danger?

A sealer that is predominantly solvent carrier with an undisclosed or absent active ingredient in the SDS raises questions that are worth asking before application to an expensive natural stone surface. High solvent content with no identifiable professional active chemistry suggests either a very low active concentration, a basic commodity active, or both. And as discussed, a fast evaporating solvent carrier raises serious questions about whether meaningful penetration is actually being achieved regardless of what the active ingredient is.

If there was genuinely impressive sealing technology in a product, you would expect to see it on the SDS. Professional manufacturers like Faber are proud of their active chemistry — they do not hide it.

The Safety Advantage of Water Based Chemistry

Stone sealers are most commonly applied in kitchens and bathrooms — enclosed domestic spaces that frequently contain potential ignition sources. Gas hob ignition systems, extractor fan motors, underfloor heating controls — all common in the UK homes and kitchens where stone sealers get applied.

A sealer with a flashpoint of 12°C — classified as a highly flammable liquid — presents a genuine fire risk in these environments. The vapours from a highly flammable solvent based product are heavier than air, travel at ground level and can ignite at a considerable distance from the point of application.

Faber Hidro 150 is explicitly classified as incombustible on its SDS. It carries no flammability classification, no flame pictogram and no highly flammable hazard statement. It can be applied safely in occupied domestic spaces without the fire risk associated with high solvent content products, and without the need for respiratory protection beyond sensible basic precautions.

For professional contractors working in occupied homes this also has very practical implications — managing ignition sources when applying a highly flammable product in a client’s kitchen is simply not a concern with a water based formulation.

Food Safe Certified — Why This Matters

Faber Hidro 150 is independently certified safe for food contact. This certification covers kitchen worktops, dining tables and food preparation surfaces — the exact environments where natural stone is increasingly installed in UK homes.

This is not a minor detail. Consider what it means in practice:

The worktop you seal with a stone impregnator is the same surface you prepare food on. Chopping vegetables, rolling pastry, placing freshly washed fruit — all happening on a surface that has been treated with a stone sealer. The question of whether that sealer is certified safe for food contact is not an abstract one.

A sealer that is predominantly isopropyl alcohol with an undisclosed active ingredient is almost certainly not food safe certified. Isopropyl alcohol is not a food safe substance and a product carrying a Danger signal word with a highly flammable classification and undisclosed active chemistry is not one that any reputable certification body would certify for food contact surfaces.

Hidro 150’s food contact certification is independently verified and covers the surfaces where it matters most. For kitchen worktop applications specifically — marble, granite, limestone, quartz agglomerate — this certification should be a baseline requirement, not a premium feature.

Which Surfaces Does Hidro 150 Protect?

Faber Hidro 150 is suitable for use on a wide range of natural stone and tile surfaces commonly found in UK homes and commercial properties:

  • Marble
  • Limestone — including traditional British limestone flags and Cotswold stone
  • Travertine
  • Granite
  • Sandstone — including Yorkshire sandstone and buff sandstone
  • Slate — including Welsh slate and reclaimed slate flooring
  • Basaltina and porphyry
  • Quartzite
  • Agglomerate stone — marble-concrete, marble-resin and quartz-resin agglomerates
  • Terracotta
  • Natural stone worktops — kitchen and bathroom
  • Stone hearths and fireplace surrounds
  • External stone paving, paths and steps

Always test on a small inconspicuous area first, particularly on highly polished or sensitive surfaces.

sandy limestone sealed with Faber Hidro 150
sandy limestone sealed with Faber Hidro 150

Natural Tone or Colour Enhancement — Hidro 150 vs P147 Plus

Faber Hidro 150 preserves the natural dry appearance of the stone — once cured and dry the stone looks exactly as it did before sealing, with no darkening, no sheen and no change to the surface appearance. This is the preferred finish for most natural stone applications and the appropriate choice where the natural character and colour of the stone is the point.

For applications where a richer, deeper appearance is desired — bringing out the natural colour tones and warmth of the stone — Faber P147 Plus is the alternative. P147 Plus uses a similar professional impregnating approach but delivers a colour enhancing effect that enriches the stone’s natural tones without producing a surface gloss. It is particularly popular on sandstone, travertine and limestone where the warm earthy colour tones of the stone are a key part of the appeal.

Both products provide professional impregnating protection. The choice between them is purely a matter of the desired finish.

How to Apply Faber Hidro 150

Surface preparation The stone surface must be thoroughly clean and completely dry before application. Any existing soiling, grease, mineral deposits, grout haze or old sealer residues must be removed first. Faber 30 is the recommended deep cleaning product for pre-seal preparation — applying Hidro 150 over a contaminated surface will lock contamination in and compromise both penetration and performance.

Surface temperature must be between +5°C and +40°C. Do not apply in direct sunlight, on surfaces hot to the touch, or when there is any risk of rain, frost, mist or high humidity — particularly important for outdoor applications.

Application Apply Hidro 150 generously and evenly to the dry surface using a brush, lambswool applicator, roller or cloth. Ensure complete and even coverage across the whole surface.

The product is fast drying and normally leaves no residues. On low absorbency surfaces, slight residues may appear — simply wipe off with a clean dry cloth before they dry.

For highly absorbent surfaces, apply a second coat no less than 45 minutes after the first.

Coverage and drying Coverage is 15-20 m² per litre — efficient for a professional grade product. The surface dries within one hour of application and is ready for use after 2-3 hours.

Important Always ensure the surface is fully dry and the product fully cured before applying any maintenance cleaner or subsequent treatment. If applying over a penetrating water repellent primer as a first stage, wait for the primer to dry completely before applying Hidro 150.

Faber Hidro 150 in the Stone Care Programme

Hidro 150 sits in the middle of a complete professional stone care programme:

Before sealing — deep clean with Faber 30 Remove all ingrained soiling, grease and mineral deposits to ensure the sealer penetrates clean open stone and performs as designed. This step is not optional — a sealer applied over a contaminated surface will underperform and the contamination will be locked into the stone permanently.

Sealing — Faber Hidro 150 or P147 Plus Apply the appropriate sealer for the desired finish. Allow to cure fully before returning to use.

Ongoing maintenance — Faber Neugel or Faber Algafloor Maintain the sealed surface with a pH neutral cleaner that cleans effectively without attacking or degrading the sealer. Using an inappropriate cleaner — particularly high concentration alkaline cleaners or acidic cleaners — will shorten the life of the sealer significantly.

Periodic resealing Even the best impregnating sealer will require reapplication over time as the protection gradually diminishes with use and cleaning. The frequency depends on traffic levels, the type of stone and the cleaning products used in maintenance. A properly applied Hidro 150 treatment on a well maintained domestic surface should provide several years of protection before resealing is required.

Where to Buy Faber Hidro 150 in the UK

Faber Hidro 150 is available from HF Flooring Supplies in 1 litre and 5 litre sizes with next working day delivery across mainland UK on orders placed before 2pm Monday to Friday.

As a selected UK Faber partner, HF Flooring Supplies stocks the full Faber professional range including cleaners, sealers, polishing products, stain removers and specialist surface treatments for every stone and tile care application. Trade accounts are available for flooring professionals, stone restoration specialists and cleaning contractors across the UK.

Frequently Asked Questions About Faber Hidro 150

What is Faber Hidro 150? Faber Hidro 150 is a professional grade water based impregnating stone sealer. Its active ingredient is tripotassium propylsilanetriolate, a professional organosilane compound that chemically bonds with the stone substrate during curing to provide long lasting water and stain resistance. It is independently certified safe for food contact.

How does Hidro 150 work? Hidro 150 penetrates into the pore structure of the stone. The organosilane active ingredient hydrolyses in the presence of moisture and forms covalent chemical bonds with the hydroxyl groups on the pore walls, while simultaneously crosslinking with adjacent molecules to form a continuous hydrophobic network. The result is protection that is chemically bonded to the stone rather than simply deposited in it.

Is Hidro 150 food safe? Yes — Faber Hidro 150 is independently certified safe for food contact. It is suitable for use on kitchen worktops, dining tables and food preparation surfaces. This certification makes it one of the few professional grade stone impregnators appropriate for kitchen worktop applications where food contact is a genuine consideration.

Will Hidro 150 change the appearance of my stone? No — Hidro 150 preserves the natural dry appearance of the stone. Once cured there is no visible change to the surface, no darkening and no surface sheen. It will not yellow over time. If you want a colour enhancing effect that deepens the natural tones of the stone, Faber P147 Plus is the alternative.

Is Hidro 150 safe to use indoors? Yes — Hidro 150 is water based and explicitly classified as incombustible on its safety data sheet. It carries no flammability classification and can be applied safely in enclosed domestic spaces including kitchens and bathrooms without the fire risks associated with high solvent content sealers.

How long does Hidro 150 take to dry? The surface dries within one hour of application and is ready to return to use after 2-3 hours.

What coverage does Hidro 150 give? Coverage is 15-20 m² per litre depending on the absorbency of the surface. On highly absorbent surfaces a second coat may be required after 45 minutes.

Does Hidro 150 need to be applied before or after grouting? Hidro 150 should be applied after grouting and after the grout has fully cured. Ensure the surface is thoroughly cleaned with Faber 30 or an appropriate grout residue cleaner before sealing to remove any grout haze or residue.

How long does Hidro 150 last? The longevity of any impregnating sealer depends on traffic levels, the type of stone and the cleaning products used in maintenance. Using a pH neutral maintenance cleaner such as Faber Neugel or Algafloor will significantly extend the life of the sealer. On a well maintained domestic surface, a properly applied Hidro 150 treatment should provide several years of protection before resealing is required.

Can Hidro 150 be used on kitchen worktops? Yes — and its food contact certification makes it specifically appropriate for this application. It provides stain resistance against the oils, acids and liquids that kitchen worktops are regularly exposed to, and its invisible finish preserves the natural appearance of the stone.

What is the difference between Hidro 150 and P147 Plus? Both are professional impregnating sealers. The difference is purely aesthetic — Hidro 150 preserves the natural dry appearance of the stone while P147 Plus enhances and deepens the natural colour tones. The choice between them depends entirely on the finish you want.

Can Hidro 150 be used on external stone in the UK? Yes — Hidro 150 is suitable for both indoor and outdoor use including external stone paving, paths, steps and garden surfaces. Do not apply when there is risk of rain, frost or high humidity.

Where can I buy Faber Hidro 150 in the UK? Faber Hidro 150 is available from HF Flooring Supplies with next working day delivery across mainland UK. Available in 1 litre and 5 litre sizes. Orders placed before 2pm Monday to Friday are dispatched the same day.

What is the difference between Hidro 150 and a basic solvent based stone sealer? A basic solvent based stone sealer typically uses a fast evaporating alcohol carrier such as isopropyl alcohol at high concentration. At normal UK room temperatures, a carrier with a flashpoint of 12°C evaporates very rapidly from the stone surface — potentially before the active ingredient has had time to penetrate to a meaningful depth. Hidro 150 uses water as its primary carrier, which evaporates significantly more slowly and gives the professional organosilane active ingredient the dwell time needed to penetrate properly, react with the pore walls and form the chemically bonded crosslinked network that delivers genuine long lasting protection.

Final Thoughts

Faber Hidro 150 is not simply a stone sealer. It is a professionally engineered organosilane impregnating system that chemically bonds with the stone substrate at a molecular level, crosslinks within the pore structure, and delivers protection that is genuinely part of the stone rather than simply deposited in it.

It is water based and non-flammable. Its water carrier gives the active ingredient the dwell time to penetrate properly — something a fast evaporating solvent carrier cannot reliably deliver. It is transparent about its active chemistry on its safety data sheet. It is independently certified safe for food contact. It preserves the natural appearance of the stone. And it has been formulated by one of Italy’s leading professional surface care manufacturers with decades of expertise behind it.

For anyone serious about protecting natural stone in the UK — whether that is a newly laid limestone kitchen floor, a sandstone patio, a marble bathroom, a granite worktop, or a heritage property with original stone flagging — Hidro 150 is the professional choice.

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Faber 30 — The Ultimate Guide to Professional Stone, Tile and Grout Cleaning in the UK

Faber 30 — The Ultimate Guide to Professional Stone, Tile and Grout Cleaning in the UK

Whether you’re a flooring professional preparing a surface for sealing, a cleaning contractor tackling a heavily soiled commercial space, or a homeowner trying to restore a tired natural stone floor, finding the right heavy duty cleaner is one of the most important decisions you’ll make. Use the wrong product and you risk damaging the surface, stripping existing sealers, or simply not getting the result you need. Use the right one and the job becomes significantly easier.

This guide covers everything you need to know about Faber 30 — what it is, what it does, which surfaces it works on, and which problems it’s specifically designed to solve.


What is Faber 30?

Faber 30 is a professional grade heavy duty alkaline degreasing cleaner made by Faber Chimica, an Italian surface care company with decades of formulation expertise behind their professional product range. It is designed for deep cleaning natural stone, ceramic, porcelain, and tile surfaces where standard maintenance cleaners simply aren’t strong enough.

Unlike basic alkaline cleaners that rely on raw caustic chemistry to remove soiling, Faber 30 uses a multi-action formulation that tackles several types of contamination simultaneously. This makes it significantly more effective on complex, heavily soiled surfaces than a standard high pH degreaser.

Faber 30 concentrated alkaline deep cleaner bottle for removing grease, grime, and tire marks from stone and tile floors

Faber 30 is available in the UK from HF Flooring Supplies with next working day delivery on orders placed before 2pm Monday to Friday.


What Makes Faber 30 Different From Other Heavy Duty Cleaners?

This is the question worth answering properly, because the difference matters.

Many heavy duty stone and tile cleaners are built around a simple formula — high pH sodium hydroxide combined with a basic solvent. That approach works to a point, but it is brute force chemistry. It attacks grease but does little else, and the corrosive nature of caustic-heavy formulations can cause problems on certain stone types and damage grout over time with repeated use.

Faber 30 takes a different approach. Its formulation combines three distinct mechanisms:

Sodium silicate — provides penetrating action that gets beneath ingrained soiling and physically lifts contamination that surface-level cleaning cannot reach. It also leaves a mild protective film on the surface after cleaning, which aids the next stage of treatment whether that is sealing, polishing or maintenance.

Tetrasodium EDTA — a chelating agent that binds to and breaks down mineral deposits and hard water salts as part of the cleaning process. Most alkaline cleaners do not address mineral contamination at all. Faber 30 tackles it simultaneously alongside grease and soiling. This is particularly valuable in the UK where hard water affects large parts of England, including the South East, Midlands and East of England.

Ethoxylated alcohol surfactants — a quality surfactant system that ensures contamination is properly lifted from the surface and removed rather than redistributed across it.

The result is a product that addresses grease, oil, ingrained soiling and mineral deposits in a single application — doing the work that would otherwise require multiple products and multiple passes.


What Problems Does Faber 30 Solve?

Heavily ingrained soiling on natural stone Natural stone is porous. Over time, without adequate sealing and maintenance, dirt, grease and general soiling penetrates below the surface where standard cleaners cannot reach it. Faber 30’s penetrating action gets beneath that ingrained contamination and lifts it out.

Greasy stone and tile floors in kitchens and commercial spaces Kitchen environments — both domestic and commercial — subject stone floors to constant grease and oil contamination. Standard maintenance cleaners are not formulated to deal with heavy grease loading. Faber 30 is specifically designed for this level of contamination.

Dull, lacklustre stone that has lost its appearance Stone floors that look dull and flat despite regular cleaning are often suffering from a build up of cleaning residues, mineral deposits from hard water, or ingrained soiling that has accumulated over time. A deep clean with Faber 30 before resealing or polishing removes that build up and gives the surface a clean base to work from.

Preparation before sealing This is one of Faber 30’s most important applications and one that professionals across the UK rely on heavily. Any sealer applied over a contaminated surface will lock that contamination in and perform poorly. Faber 30 provides the thorough deep clean needed before any impregnating sealer, surface sealer or polishing treatment is applied.

Black and stained grout lines Grout is highly porous and attracts soiling rapidly, particularly in kitchens and bathrooms. Faber 30’s combination of alkaline and chelating action is highly effective on discoloured and stained grout lines that standard tile cleaners will not shift.

Hard water and mineral deposit removal The UK has some of the hardest water in Europe, particularly across the South East, Midlands, East Anglia and parts of Yorkshire. Mineral deposits build up on stone and tile surfaces over time, creating a dull, hazy appearance that is resistant to standard cleaning. The chelating action of Faber 30 specifically targets these deposits and breaks them down as part of the cleaning process.

Stripping old cleaning product residues Floors that have been maintained with inappropriate or low quality cleaning products over a period of time often develop a residue build up that dulls the surface and makes it harder to clean. Faber 30 strips this back to the clean stone beneath.

Post-construction and renovation cleaning After building work, stone and tile surfaces are often contaminated with dust, grout haze, adhesive residue, plaster splashes and general construction soiling. Faber 30 is widely used as a first clean on newly installed or renovated surfaces to remove this post-construction contamination before the surface is treated or sealed.

Before and after using Faber 30 on a heavily soiled natural stone floor. No sealer, no polishing treatment — just Faber 30 doing what it's designed to do.
Before and after using Faber 30 on a heavily soiled natural stone floor. No sealer, no polishing treatment — just Faber 30 doing what it’s designed to do.

Which Surfaces Can Faber 30 Be Used On?

Faber 30 is suitable for use on a wide range of surfaces commonly found in UK homes and commercial properties:

  • Marble
  • Granite
  • Travertine
  • Limestone — including traditional British limestone flags and Cotswold stone
  • Slate — including Welsh slate and reclaimed slate flooring
  • Sandstone — including Yorkshire sandstone and buff sandstone paving
  • Victorian and Edwardian encaustic tiles
  • Ceramic tiles
  • Porcelain tiles
  • Agglomerate stone
  • Grout lines
  • Natural stone worktops
  • Stone hearths and fireplace surrounds
  • Commercial and industrial stone and tile floors

Always test on a small inconspicuous area first, particularly on polished or honed natural stone surfaces.


How to Use Faber 30

Faber 30 is a concentrate and should be diluted before use. Dilution ratios vary depending on the level of soiling:

  • Light soiling: dilute 1:20 with water
  • Medium soiling: dilute 1:10 with water
  • Heavy soiling and deep cleaning: dilute 1:5 with water
  • Extreme soiling or post-construction cleaning: use at 1:3 or neat on particularly stubborn areas

Application: Apply the diluted solution to the surface and allow it to dwell for several minutes to penetrate the soiling. Agitate with a stiff brush, scrubbing machine or single disc machine depending on the scale of the job and the surface type. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow to dry completely before any sealing or treatment.

For heavily soiled surfaces a second application may be required. Always ensure the surface is fully rinsed and neutralised before applying any sealer or subsequent treatment.


Faber 30 for Pre-Seal Preparation — Why It Matters

If there is one application where Faber 30 consistently delivers results that make a measurable difference to the finished outcome, it is pre-seal preparation.

A sealer applied to a surface that has not been properly deep cleaned will underperform. Residual soiling, mineral deposits and grease contamination act as a barrier between the sealer and the stone, preventing proper penetration and adhesion. The sealer may appear to work initially but will wear unevenly, look patchy, and need reapplication far sooner than it should.

Taking the time to deep clean with Faber 30 before sealing removes that barrier entirely. The sealer goes onto clean, open stone, penetrates properly, and performs as it is designed to. The result is a better finish, longer lasting protection, and fewer callbacks.

This is why professional floor restoration contractors across the UK consistently include Faber 30 as a standard part of their preparation process rather than an optional extra.


Faber 30 in Commercial Environments

Commercial stone and tile floors face significantly higher levels of contamination than domestic surfaces — higher foot traffic, heavier grease loading in food service environments, and more frequent cleaning cycles that can lead to product residue build up over time.

Faber 30’s concentrated formula and multi-action cleaning mechanism makes it well suited to commercial cleaning applications across the UK including:

  • Restaurant and hotel kitchen floors
  • Pub and hospitality environments
  • Retail and showroom stone floors
  • Healthcare and commercial washrooms
  • Office reception and lobby areas with natural stone
  • Holiday cottages and rental properties with stone flooring

The concentrate format also makes it economical at scale — a single 5 litre container diluted correctly covers a significant area even at higher dilution ratios for maintenance cleaning.


Faber 30 in Period and Heritage Properties

The UK has an extraordinarily rich stock of period properties — Victorian terraces, Edwardian townhouses, Georgian farmhouses, country cottages and listed buildings — many of which feature original natural stone flooring that requires specialist care.

Original Victorian encaustic tiled hallways, flagstone kitchen floors, Welsh slate utility rooms and sandstone farmhouse kitchens are all surfaces where Faber 30 excels. These surfaces have often been neglected for years, treated with inappropriate products, or simply accumulated decades of ingrained soiling that standard cleaning products cannot address.

Faber 30 is gentle enough on the stone itself whilst being powerful enough to lift that historic build up of contamination, making it a trusted choice for stone restoration professionals working on period and heritage properties across the UK.


Faber 30 and Stone Care — The Bigger Picture

Deep cleaning is only one part of proper stone care. Once a surface has been cleaned with Faber 30, the next steps in a professional stone care programme typically involve:

  • Sealing with an appropriate impregnating sealer such as Faber Hidro 150 or Faber P147 Plus depending on the stone type and desired finish
  • Ongoing maintenance with a pH neutral cleaner such as Faber Algafloor or Faber Neugel to protect the sealed surface between deep cleans
  • Periodic restoration as needed using appropriate polishing or restoration products from the Faber range

Faber 30 sits at the start of that process — the foundation on which everything else is built. Once your stone is properly cleaned, choosing the right sealer is the next critical decision. Our complete guide to professional stone sealing explains what to look for and why not all sealers are equal.


Where to Buy Faber 30 in the UK

Faber 30 is available from HF Flooring Supplies in 1 litre and 5 litre sizes with next working day delivery across mainland UK on orders placed before 2pm Monday to Friday.

As a selected UK Faber partner, HF Flooring Supplies stocks the full Faber professional range including cleaners, sealers, polishing products, stain removers and specialist treatments for every stone and tile care application. Trade accounts are available for flooring professionals, cleaning contractors and restoration specialists.


Frequently Asked Questions About Faber 30

What is Faber 30 used for? Faber 30 is a professional heavy duty alkaline cleaner used for deep cleaning natural stone, ceramic, porcelain and tile surfaces. It is particularly effective for removing ingrained soiling, grease, mineral deposits and hard water staining, and is widely used as a pre-seal preparation cleaner by flooring and restoration professionals across the UK.

Is Faber 30 safe to use on natural stone? Yes, when used at the correct dilution ratio Faber 30 is safe on natural stone including marble, limestone, travertine, granite, slate and sandstone. Always test on a small inconspicuous area first and ensure the surface is thoroughly rinsed after use before applying any sealer or treatment.

Can Faber 30 be used on Victorian tiles? Yes — Faber 30 is well suited to original Victorian and Edwardian encaustic tiles, which are highly porous and prone to ingrained soiling. It is one of the most effective products for deep cleaning original period tiling before sealing or restoration.

How do I dilute Faber 30? Dilution ratios range from 1:20 for light soiling up to neat application for extreme contamination or post-construction cleaning. For standard deep cleaning of heavily soiled surfaces a 1:5 dilution is typically recommended. Always rinse thoroughly after use.

Can Faber 30 be used before sealing stone? Yes — pre-seal preparation is one of Faber 30’s primary applications. Applying a sealer over a surface that has not been properly deep cleaned will significantly reduce the sealer’s performance and longevity. A thorough clean with Faber 30 ensures the sealer penetrates properly and performs as designed.

Is Faber 30 suitable for grout cleaning? Yes — Faber 30 is highly effective on stained and discoloured grout lines. Its combination of alkaline and chelating action addresses both soiling and mineral build up in grout, which standard tile cleaners often fail to shift.

Can Faber 30 be used in hard water areas? Yes — and it is particularly well suited to hard water areas such as the South East, Midlands and East of England. The tetrasodium EDTA in the formulation specifically chelates and breaks down mineral deposits and hard water scale as part of the cleaning process.

Where can I buy Faber 30 in the UK? Faber 30 is available from HF Flooring Supplies with next working day delivery across mainland UK. Available in 1 litre and 5 litre sizes. Orders placed before 2pm Monday to Friday are dispatched the same day.

Is Faber 30 suitable for commercial use? Yes — Faber 30’s concentrated formula makes it well suited to commercial cleaning applications including restaurant kitchens, hospitality venues, retail showrooms and commercial washrooms. The concentrate format is economical at scale and effective on the heavy soiling levels typical of commercial environments.

What is the difference between Faber 30 and a standard alkaline cleaner? Standard alkaline cleaners typically rely on caustic chemistry — high pH sodium hydroxide — to cut through grease. Faber 30 goes significantly further with a multi-action formulation that combines sodium silicate for penetrating ingrained soiling, tetrasodium EDTA for chelating mineral deposits, and a quality surfactant system for effective lift and removal. The result is a cleaner that tackles multiple types of contamination simultaneously rather than just attacking grease with raw alkalinity.


Summary — Is Faber 30 the Right Product for Your Job?

If you are dealing with any of the following, Faber 30 is the product to reach for:

✅ Heavily soiled natural stone floors that standard cleaners cannot shift

✅ Greasy kitchen or commercial floors

✅ Stained and discoloured grout

✅ Pre-seal preparation on stone or tile

✅ Post-construction deep cleaning

✅ Hard water and mineral deposit removal across UK hard water areas

✅ Stripping old cleaning residue build up

✅ Restoring neglected period property stone flooring

✅ Victorian tiles, limestone flags, Welsh slate and sandstone

It is not a maintenance cleaner for regular use — it is a deep cleaning tool for when the job demands more than a standard product can deliver.

Used correctly, it is one of the most effective professional stone and tile cleaners available in the UK market.

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Why You Can’t Polish Granite the Same Way as Marble — And What to Use Instead

If you work with natural stone floors, you already know that marble, limestone, and travertine respond well to acid-based crystallisation powders. The chemistry is well established — acid reacts with the calcium carbonate in those stones, generating heat and a hard, reflective surface layer.

Granite is different. It is a siliceous stone with virtually no calcium carbonate content. Acid crystallisation does nothing to it. Apply a marble polishing powder to a granite floor and you will get very little result — or worse, risk surface damage and wasted time.

Granite requires a different approach entirely: mechanical polishing using a purpose-formulated cream. This post explains why, and introduces Faber Star Shine — the professional answer to granite floor restoration and maintenance.


The Difference Between Granite and Calcareous Stone

Natural stone broadly divides into two categories based on mineral composition:

Calcareous stones — marble, limestone, travertine, and onyx — contain a high proportion of calcium carbonate (CaCO₃). This makes them responsive to acid crystallisation treatments, where a mild acid reacts with the stone surface to create a densified, polished layer.

Siliceous stones — granite, slate, quartzite, and sandstone — are composed primarily of silica and silicate minerals. They contain little or no calcium carbonate and are largely unaffected by acid chemistry.

Granite specifically is an igneous rock formed under extreme heat and pressure. It is exceptionally dense and hard — which is precisely why it is so popular in commercial flooring, kitchen worktops, and high-traffic environments. But that density and composition means standard stone polishing techniques simply do not work on it.


How Granite Polishing Actually Works

Because acid crystallisation is ineffective on granite, polishing must be done mechanically. The polishing cream works as a micro-abrasive, physically smoothing the surface at a microscopic level while simultaneously sealing the open porosity of the granite.

The result is a surface that:

  • Reflects light more uniformly — delivering sharp, high-clarity gloss
  • Has reduced surface porosity — meaning fewer entry points for dirt, staining agents, and moisture
  • Resists foot traffic more effectively — the sealed surface holds up better under daily use
  • Is significantly easier to maintain — routine cleaning removes soiling more easily from a sealed, polished surface

Granite polishing is a mechanical process, not a chemical one. The right product needs to work with the stone’s physical properties — not try to react with chemistry that isn’t there.


Introducing Faber Star Shine

Faber Star Shine is a professional water-based polishing cream developed specifically for granite. It is formulated as a white solid paste — thicker in consistency than liquid polish products — which becomes creamier when worked by a single-disc machine.

Faber Star Shine – High-Gloss Polishing Cream for Granite

Star Shine seals the granite surface porosity, delivers sharp brightness, and produces excellent resistance to foot traffic and staining. Treated floors are not only visually restored — they are measurably easier to maintain over time, with less frequent deep cleaning required.

Key Features

  • Granite-specific formula — purpose-built for siliceous stone
  • Seals surface porosity — reduces penetration of dirt and staining agents
  • Sharp, high-clarity gloss — crisp brightness without haze
  • Excellent traffic and stain resistance — performs under heavy commercial use
  • No layering defects — multiple passes per section can be made for higher shine without uneven results
  • Water-based and unscented — low-impact for occupied environments
  • Indoor and outdoor use — suitable for granite floors, worktops, and external paving
  • 50–70 m²/kg coverage — economical for larger commercial areas

How to Use Faber Star Shine

What you need

 

  • Single-disc machine — minimum 2.0 HP, 2.2 HP recommended
  • White polishing pad
  • Faber Deterfug or Faber 30 for surface preparation
  • Clean cloths or vacuum for residue removal

Step-by-step application

  1. Prepare the surface. Clean thoroughly using Faber Deterfug (for general soiling) or Faber 30 (for heavy grease or grime). The surface must be clean and dry before polishing begins.
  2. Shake the container. Star Shine is a white solid paste. Shake well before use to bring it to a creamier consistency — both consistencies perform identically, but the creamier form is easier to apply.
  3. Work in 0.5 m² sections. Apply 2–3 teaspoons of product onto the section. This small section size gives you precision control and ensures consistent results across the floor.
  4. Buff immediately. Begin buffing with the single-disc machine fitted with a white pad at 150–200 rpm. Work in circular motions, covering the section evenly. Broaden movements towards the next section as you complete each area.
  5. Repeat passes if needed. For worn or heavily trafficked surfaces, 2–3 applications per section will give higher gloss and better surface closure. No layering defects will occur between passes.
  6. Remove residues. Once complete, remove dry residues using a cloth, broom, or vacuum. Rinse the surface with water. The floor is ready for use.

Always test on a small, inconspicuous area before treating the full surface — particularly on older, heavily worn granite where surface condition may vary.


Star Shine vs Star Shine Easy — Choosing the Right Product

Faber produces two products with similar names that are often confused. They are not interchangeable — each is formulated for a specific surface type, and using the wrong one will produce poor results.

 

Star Shine

Star Shine Easy

Surface

Granite only

Porcelain, quartz, ceramics

How it works

Mechanical polishing, seals porosity

Mechanical polishing, seals porosity

Coverage

50–70 m²/kg

50–70 m²/kg

Section size

0.5 m² at a time

0.5 m² at a time

Indoor/outdoor

Both

Both

The rule is straightforward: if your surface is granite, use Star Shine. If your surface is polished porcelain, quartz, or ceramic, use Star Shine Easy.

For marble, limestone, or travertine, neither Star Shine product is appropriate — those surfaces require Faber A2 MIX or A3 Yellow polishing powder, which work via acid crystallisation.


Suitable Applications

  • Polished granite floors in commercial environments — offices, retail, hospitality, and leisure
  • Granite kitchen worktops and bathroom surfaces
  • Outdoor granite paving and cladding
  • Maintenance polishing of granite floors between major restoration treatments
  • Post-installation polishing on new granite floor installations

Ongoing Maintenance After Star Shine Treatment

Following Star Shine treatment, maintaining the polished surface is straightforward. For daily cleaning, Faber AlgaFloor or Faber Neugel are recommended — both are formulated for natural stone and will not strip the polished finish. For periodic deep cleaning, Faber 30 or Deterfug can be used as required.

The sealed, polished surface produced by Star Shine makes routine maintenance significantly less intensive — soiling sits on the surface rather than penetrating, and is removed more easily with regular cleaning.


Technical Specifications

 

Specification

Detail

Type

Water-based polishing cream

Formulated for

Granite specifically

Coverage

50–70 m²/kg

Machine speed

150–200 rpm (minimum 2.0 HP)

Application pad

White polishing pad

Section size

0.5 m² at a time

Surface temperature

+5°C to +40°C

Shelf life

24 months

Available sizes

1kg / 5kg buckets

Indoor/outdoor

Both

Made in

Italy


Available from HF Flooring Supplies

Faber Star Shine is available in 1kg and 5kg buckets from HF Flooring Supplies, with same-day dispatch on orders placed before 2pm Monday to Friday.

For granite floors: Faber Star Shine — available at hfflooringsupplies.co.uk

For porcelain, quartz, and ceramics: Faber Star Shine Easy — also available at hfflooringsupplies.co.uk

If you are unsure which product is right for your surface, contact us and we will help you choose the correct solution for the job.

 

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Why Environment is Everything in Floor Finishing

When a professional floor sander opens a bottle of Arboritec Avenue 2K or Genuine 5, they are not just pouring a liquid onto wood. They are initiating a complex chemical reaction designed to create a ceramic-fortified shield. However, even the most advanced nanotechnology in the world cannot overcome a hostile environment.

In this industry we have experienced products seemingly being “watery” across various brands. While it is tempting to blame the liquid in the bottle, the reality is almost always found in the site conditions. Understanding the physics of your workspace is the difference between a high-spec success and a costly failure.


The Viscosity Fact Check: 25s vs 17s

A common misconception is that a lacquer should have a specific feel to be considered high quality, yet technical data proves otherwise.

Viscosity is measured using a DIN 4 cup, which calculates how many seconds it takes for a liquid to flow through a standard funnel.

  • Arboritec Avenue 2K: Measures at 25 seconds.
  • Competitor Ceramic Finish: Measured at 17 seconds.

Technically, Avenue is nearly 50 percent thicker than a competitor product. If it feels watery on a specific day, the product is not the problem. The variable that changed is the temperature. As heat increases, the molecules move faster and the internal friction of the liquid drops. If your lacquer was left in a van on a sunny April day, it might have reached 30 degrees Celsius. At that heat, even the thickest professional lacquer will flow like water.


The Invisible Heater: Solar Gain and Thermal Mass

If you are reading this on a sunny day then it’s a perfect example of the solar trap. It might be a crisp 10 degrees Celsius outside, but if the sun has been beaming through a window for three hours, your substrate is an invisible heater.

Wood acts as a thermal mass. It absorbs radiant energy from the sun and holds onto it. While the air in the room might feel a comfortable 20 degrees, a wood floor in direct sunlight can easily hit 30 to 35 degrees Celsius.

The Hand Test Failure

Many professionals rely on the hand test, but this is a dangerous deception. Human skin temperature is roughly 33 to 35 degrees Celsius. Heat always moves from warm to cool.

  • If you touch a floor that is 25 degrees, heat leaves your hand and moves into the wood.
  • Your brain interprets this as a cool sensation.
  • In reality, 25 degrees is already the danger zone for lacquer.

By the time a floor actually feels warm to your touch, it is already 13 degrees above the ideal application temperature. This heat causes flash drying, where the surface of the lacquer skins over before the air underneath can escape. This is the primary cause of bubbling and pinholes.


The Zero-Failure Site Standard

To protect the integrity of the Atomic Rebar ceramic matrix, you must control the site. Treat every job as if you are brand new to the process to ensure no steps are skipped.

1. Product Acclimatization

Do not leave your primer or lacquer in a vehicle. Bring all tubs into the room well before work begins. This allows the liquid to reach and stay at the stable room temperature of 18 to 22 degrees Celsius.

2. The Two-Hour Solar Shield

Windows must be blocked out using blinds or brown paper at least two hours before you apply the first coat. This is not just about stopping the light; it is about allowing the thermal mass of the wood to cool down and stabilize.

3. Precision Sanding

The finish is only as good as the prep. Refine the floor to a 100g/120g finish as your professional standard. This provides the ideal mechanical key for the primer to bond without sinking too deep into the grain.

4. Controlled Ventilation

Timing is critical for a clear, cloud-free floor.

  • During Application: Keep the room sealed. No drafts. Air moving across a wet floor causes uneven drying and ridges.
  • The 30-Minute Rule: Wait 30 minutes after you finish coating. Then, take active steps to create airflow. Open windows or use fans to move the evaporated moisture out of the room so the finish can cure correctly.

The Ceramic Matrix Advantage

Unlike traditional finishes that use heavy additives, Arboritec builds the ceramic directly into the polymer matrix.

  • No Settling: You do not have to worry about the protection sinking to the bottom of the bottle.
  • Uniformity: Every drop contains the same level of wear resistance and fire safety.
  • Atomic Rebar: This integrated chemistry creates a microscopic skeleton within the finish, providing elite durability without a plastic appearance.

Winter Risks and Prolonged Dry Times

In the winter, a cold floor acts like a refrigerator. If the surface is below 15 degrees Celsius, the evaporation process slows to a crawl. Moisture can stay trapped in the film for hours. 

Use an Infrared Laser Thermometer to verify the floor is at least 18 degrees before you pour. If the floor is too cold, the chemical cross-linking in a 2K system might not efficiently happen correctly, leaving you with a softer, under-cured finish.


A professional floor sander is as much a scientist as they are a craftsman. By using tools like an IR thermometer and following a strict site guide, you remove the guesswork. You move from subjective feelings to objective data.

When the environment is right, the Arboritec 3-in-2 system (one coat of primer and two coats of 2K lacquer) provides a commercial-grade shield that is technically superior and provides long term durability.  

Do not Just Coat It. Arboritec It.